Amazing CR250 Shock Rebuild!


hey guys so part of doing a bike build
is having all these ideas try them out and see what fits with the build I’ve
got the shock back here and I’ve already done a ton of work to it but I’ve got
this plan and once it’s finished up it is really gonna stand out against the
rest of the bike basically what I’ve done with the shocks so far is stripped
the coating off the shock body sand down all the cast knee marks and bring it to
this brushed aluminum finish and then I also powder-coated the shock spring – I
have videos on the process of all that but thinking about it more in the
placement of the shock on the bike this type of finish is really going to blend
in with the swingarm and the frame since they both have that similar brushed
aluminum finish to it I know this sounds crazy but I’m gonna pull the shock back
apart do some sarah coding and it is gonna look freaking amazing
now I’ve already made a few videos on the shock rebuild but this time around
I’m just gonna time-lapse it with no tutorial so enjoy all right I’ve got the shock all the way
down to the shaft and clevis now to seracote the clevis I’ll have to pull
out the adjuster here in order to do that the set screw will need to come out
unfortunately I don’t have a way of pulling the clevis off the shaft so this
part is gonna have to stay bare aluminum but honestly when it’s on the bike it’s
not really that noticeable so not a huge deal however I will be Cera coding the
rest of these parts here I’ve got some really cool colors in the works before I
do anything with the shock body I’ll need to pop out the upper bearing and
that needs to be replaced anyways I’ve got the seal off one side of the bearing
and as you can see there is a circlip down inside of there so once I get that
circle up out I can push the bearing out of the shock body to remove the circlip
I’ll need to push the bearing in a little bit to get access to it so I’ve
got a socket that fits over the bearing but isn’t big enough to where it’s gonna
hit on the circlip I’m gonna put the setup in the vise and push the bearing
in just a tad and to get clearance over here on the other side I’ve got a socket
that fits over the whole bearing itself this is going to go between the vise and
the shock body on the other side all right I felt the move just a little
bit now that should give me access to remove the circlip all right guys I’ve
got this bearing pushed all the way down inside the shock and there’s no way it’s
going to any farther and there just isn’t any room to get a screwdriver in
there to pick out that circlip I’ve probably spent thirty minutes so far
picking up this thing with every possible screwdriver busted a few and
the damn thing just will not come out so what I came up with is I’ve got a few
picks here and this seems to be the one that’s gonna do the trick let’s see if I
can get it out here is the plan I’ve got this tiny little flat blade screwdriver
and I’m gonna pull up on the circlip to hold it into place and then use the pick
to pick the circlip out of the groove so if you guys run into a similar
situation where he can’t get a circle about definitely give this type of a
pick a shot this is what really did the trick I’m not sure what I would have
done without it just gonna set up the shock and the vise like I had before
except with the sockets flipped around and now I’ll be able to push this
bearing out that was definitely a lot more hassle than I would have liked but
hey in the end I’ll learn something new I’m gonna clean up the shock body on the
buffer for a bit when I did all the sanding before there’s a few spots that
I didn’t get very even like you can see right here in the light it’s got a
little bit of a dip in it so I’m gonna touch all this up with the rubber
sanding drum I’ve got the shock body all nice and
smooth out really glad I went ahead and did that so if you guys have seen my
previous seracote videos you know how the prep process is I start with the
greasing all the parts then a soaked in acetone followed up with sandblasting
and then a trip through the oven for preheat after that they’re ready to
spray I’ve got these parts cleaned sandblasted
and heat treated just got to mix up some seracote materials over here and I’ll be
all ready to shoot I’ll be going with black for these parts I just pulled the black pieces out of
the oven after the curing process is finished up they’re looking pretty good
and now the shock body is ready to go in for a preheat the shock body is all done
with the preheat process and over here I’ve got the color mixed up and ready to
go in the gun I’ll be going with the bronze color on this one and not the
same bronze I used on the triple clamps this is called a midnight bronze should
be pretty sweet well I’ve got the sarah coding 100% done
now pretty happy with it but the bronze is a little bit darker than I had hoped
it’s almost like a brownish color that’s alright though still looks pretty good
so now it is on to the assembly and the first step is going to be installing the
new upper bearing that I received from All Balls Racing so big thank you to
them looks like they provided the circlips a
bearing of course and the two seals I’m gonna get this thing ready to go by
putting the shock body in the vise all right I’ve had the bearing sitting in
the freezer for a couple hours now and I should be able to get it started here in
the shock body before I put the shock body in the vise alright that should be
in there just enough to stay in place so I’ve got two sockets here one fits over
the bearing and hits on the outer race and the other one goes on this side and
it’s going to allow for the bearing to push through the top of the shock she’s got to make sure this bearing is
going in straight so the bearings slid in pretty easily I
think having it in the freezer beforehand definitely helped out once I
have the circlip and seals installed the shock will be ready to go back together one thing I didn’t show after I
installed the circlip is I put the shock body back in the vise and see the
bearing against the circlip to Center the bearing within the shock now before I start putting the shock
back together I’m gonna pull apart the rebound
adjuster grease it up and make sure it’s all good to go so to remove the adjuster
there is a lock screw here it’s an allen head and many times these
are locked headed you may have to apply a little bit of heat to it see how this
one is this one came loose pretty easily so once that lock screws out then just
start loosening up the adjuster and as you turn the adjuster out the outer ring
will start popping out just like that we’re just going to continue to turn
that adjuster out until it pops out of the body or the clevis just like that so it looks pretty good down inside of
there I don’t really see much rust or anything worn so I’m gonna go ahead and
grease up this adjuster and put it back together all right these two pieces are
just gonna slide apart from each other and there’s a little spring and ball
inside you got to keep track of those super small pieces all right you can
kind of see that ball in spring so make sure that’s facing up as you pull the
outer part off it’s gonna give things a little wipe down apply some grease and
it’ll go back together for the greasing step I’ll be using this mini grease gun
that I show in a ton of my videos I’ll put the link down in the description to
where you can buy it now we’re just gonna slide these two
pieces back together once you have the two pieces all the way
together you should be able to turn it and hear and feel the clicking action of
the adjuster and this thing is super smooth now I’m just gonna put a little
bit of grease on that o-ring and slide it back into the clevis now this is
going to be pretty much like just threading in a bolt so start turning in
the adjuster and make sure the two pieces stay together and then once you
have the adjuster seated all the way push down the outer ring make sure it’s
that is seated all the way and then the lock screw can be threaded in I would
definitely recommend putting Loctite on this one holy crap it is unbelievable how smooth
this adjuster is now if you have a sticky adjuster definitely give this a
try okay time to slap this shock back
together I’ve already covered the rebuild portion of a shock before in a
separate video you can get over that video by clicking the circle right up
here in the corner so I use the pivot works rebuild kit on the shock and then
of course I’ll be using Maximus shock fluid big thank you to those companies
for helping out all righty oh it starts the time-lapse
right now as you can see the shock is now done and
looking absolutely prime super stoked at this one just for the heck of it I’m
gonna mock it up on the bike oh gosh that is absolutely wicked really hope you guys enjoyed this one if
you’re curious about any of the tools or supplies used throughout the video i’ll
have them linked down in the description alright I’ll see you in the next one
take care

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