Can Cerakote Be Done At Home?


what’s up guys so one thing I’ve noticed
down in the comments recently is a lot of you are talking about seracote all I
hear is seracote seracote’s Eriko so just because of you guys I am gonna try
my hand at it and I already know this is gonna be one of my funnest projects yet
I went ahead and bought everything to do the sarah coding and I’m gonna try it on
these triple clamps back here and from what I’ve heard it’s pretty similar to
powder coating as far as the process but there’s this more prep work involved
with it I’ve got these triple clamps all
smoothed out and these should look amazing
Sarah coated since I was doing some grinding and polishing on these triples
earlier I’m gonna have to meticulously clean them before I do any type of
coating so the first step is to clean them with degreaser and a brush and then
I’m gonna soak them in acetone for 30 minutes and of course you always want to
have a test piece so I’ll be testing out the process on this front master
cylinder cap and make sure you stick around for the whole video I’ll be
giving it away once it’s all finished up oh and in case you didn’t notice I had
to pull the lower bearing off the triple clamp I’ll have a video on replacing the
steering stem bearing is coming up pretty soon before I messed around with
the triple clamps anymore I’m gonna run through the process on the master
cylinder cap just gonna give it a sand before I start prepping it for seracote
I’ve got this rubber sanding drum that goes on the buffer works really well for
sanding and smoothing out aluminum and what this is going to do is remove all
the lettering on the master cylinder cap gonna give it a really cool look man that already looks incredible I’m
tempted to not even seracote it so since I was using grease to sand it I’m gonna
have to clean it really well with the greaser and acetone the next step is to
soak the part in acetone for 30 minutes and what this is gonna do is remove any
remaining dirt oil and grease just gonna fill up this tub with the acetone and
keep in mind all the supplies used throughout the video are linked down in
the description as you can imagine acetone in a plastic tub do not mix very
well started melting the plastic so instead I’m gonna have to use something
metal all right so I’ve had the part soaking for a good 20 or 30 minutes I’m
just gonna pull it out and let it dry up here on the the top of the paint tray
and once it’s dry I’m gonna stand blast it it’s pretty crazy how fast the
acetone evaporates off the part so you definitely don’t want to leave acetone
out in the open for too long from here on out whenever I’m handling the part
I’ll be wearing a set of powder free gloves and that’ll keep the oil in my
skin from getting on the part which could affect the finish so here’s a new
addition to the shop just picked up a cheap little Harbor Freight sand blaster
and this thing will work perfect for the little amount that I’ll use it and what
I’ve gotten here is an aluminum oxide media and you definitely want to make
sure you have a clean abrasive to start with if there’s any oil or grease in the
abrasive that’ll contaminate the part as well so this is my first time using the
cabinet I’ll let you know how it performs so the blaster seemed to work pretty
well got a nice even finish on the cover now I’m just gonna blow it off the air
compressor and run it through a gas out in the oven alright what I’m gonna do is
run the cap through the oven for 60 minutes at 300 degrees and what this is
gonna do is burn off any remaining oil and solvents on the part so as you can
imagine the part has to be extremely clean for the sarah coating to stick so
the 60 minutes is up on this piece I’m gonna pull it out and check it over all
right what I’m looking for here is any oil residue coming to the surface if
anything shows up I’ll have to resew kit and acetone and gas it out in the oven
once again looks like it’s good to go and it’s all ready to spray out so here
are the seracote materials this is the color which is a burnt bronze and I’ll
be mixing it with the catalyst here in the cylinder and the color will have to
be shaken up pretty good before I do any mixing alright I’ve got the color all
shaken up and for this test project I’m just gonna mix up a little bit of
material and now I’ve got to figure out at what ratio to mix it here’s a little
chart that seracote provides for the mixture ratio I’m gonna go with middle
the road a satin finish so 18 to 1 ratio and then down here is a chart that gives
an estimate of how much material you’ll need this project is going to be pretty
small so I’m just gonna use 18 cc’s of seracote 2 1 CC of hardener and one
thing to keep in mind is the shelf life on these materials once they’re mixed is
only about two hours so you got to knock the project out pretty quick I’m going
to start by pouring in 18 cc’s of the color first and then next up is one CC of the
catalyst now to mix up the materials just gonna place a glove make sure it’s
a powder free glove over the top of the cylinder and then to shake it up a bunch
the seracote is all mixed up and ready to go into the gun the gun I’m using is
actually an airbrush which worked great on the smaller parts I’m cutting and
you’ll definitely want to use a regulator for this project I’ll put the
links to where you can buy all these supplies down in the description so for
you guys that are gonna try sarah coding make sure you click those links and get
the stuff you need as soon as I pour the Sarah Koh into the gun I’ll be all ready
to spray this is gonna be way more material than I’ll actually need but you
know what pretty sure I got the ratios right so that’s all that matters so they
recommend filling the container up only about half the way and then as far as the pressure goes
seracote recommends spurring at 20 to 25 psi before I do any spraying on the part
we’re gonna test the flow on the cardboard here so I’ve got it set right
at 20 psi and I’m gonna adjust the nozzle here until I got the flow right
where I want it a little little to dry right there little bit more from what
I’ve read you want to be able to wet the part with one pass if you go too light
you’ll end up with a sandpaper like finish so right about there looks good
so usually you want to spray the most difficult areas on the part first
however with this cap it’s pretty simple so it doesn’t really matter where I
start should probably cover up this dirt bike stand so I don’t paint that as well it’s a little too dry so I’m gonna open
that valve up a little bit more actually with this part I’m gonna spray the edges
of it first looks like I’ve got a pretty even coat
on here basically you want enough of a coat to wear it’s still wet when it goes
in the oven into the oven we go before I put the part in the oven I’ll
let it sit for about 15 minutes and now that it’s in I’m gonna bake it at 300
degrees for a full hour I cannot wait to see the result of this an hour has gone
by with a cap in the oven I’m gonna pull this thing out let it cool down and then
check it out dang that is a super cool color I cannot
wait to get the triple clamps looking like that so the cover is all cooled off
and it turned out awesome really happy with this color but upon closer
inspection looks like there’s a bit of a hazy look up on top here and I’m
thinking I didn’t get a thick enough coat on there so I have to keep that in
mind on the triple clamps it is time to move on to the triple clamps I’m gonna
clean up this top clamp with the greaser and a brush and just like the master cylinder cap
I’m gonna soak the triple clamp in acetone for 30 minutes all right just gonna follow the same
process with this one pull it out of the acetone let it dry sandblast it and then
gas it off in the oven at this point I’ve got the top triple
clamp completely sandblasted and it’s hanging from the rack now just got this
bolt threaded in securing the wire into place the next step is the gas set out
in the oven at 300 degrees for a full hour I’m all set up to spray the top triple
clamp got to make sure I spray it on a little bit thicker this time but
definitely not to the point where it’s going to drool I ended up doing two coats on this
triple clamp just to make sure I’ve got enough coverage so I started on the
bottom side hit all those tight crevices and then moved on to the top side I
think I’ve got it pretty good right now just gonna wait 15 minutes and then toss
it in the oven all right guys it is the moment of truth I am so excited to see
how this top triple clamp turned out you better believe it
I am using scotch brite pad as oven mitts all right I’ve got the bottom
triple clamp all cleaned up and it’s been through the acetone soak and it’s
ready for sandblasting so there’s certain areas on this triple clamp that
I don’t want a sandblast namely the stem here where the lower bearing sits so I’m
gonna mask that off with high heat masking tape that way it holds up in the
oven as well one cool thing about steric coating that I haven’t talked about yet
is that it doesn’t leave much of a surface buildup like powder coating the
layer is very very thin so things like threads and the fork mounting surface do
not need to be masked off for Sarah coating however just to be cautious I’m
gonna mask off the surface where the bottom steering stem bearing sits well guys I’ve got the bottom triple
clamp all gassed out sandblasted and ready to spray let’s knock it out I’ve got a couple solid coats on the
bottom triple clamp but the next time I spray seracote I’ll definitely need a
better setup than this it is so tough trying to spray in all those tight areas
with carts on either side and it being so close to the ground but it worked at
the time being a couple more minutes and this thing will be ready to go into the
oven just pulled the bottom triple clamp out of the oven and man does this thing
ever look good gonna wait for it to cool down and then peel off the masking tape
and take a closer look at it well guys that is that triple clamps are
all finished up and for my first go-around I am more than stoked with the
finish such a cool process and result I guess only time will tell
to see how they hold up for this top triple clamp I’m gonna put the emblem
back on just gonna use some double-sided tape on it and stick it right back in
the center where it belongs that is such a clean look now your reward for watching the whole
video is I’ll be giving away this master cylinder cap to one of you guys hold on
a second all you have to do to enter to win this cap is the comment down below
whether you prefer two-stroke or four-stroke let the debate begin and
then I’m gonna go through and pick one you guys at random and this cap will be
yours you can use it for a decoration or put it on your bike it’ll work on any
Honda 96 the current that has a hydraulic from brake system well this
was a good time I want to say thank you for joining me on this little journey
and I would appreciate it if I get all of you to give that like button a little
tap I will see you in an upcoming video

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