Fixed The CR250


so welcome back to the channel guys good to
see you again so I’ve been working on the cr250 and as a lot of you saw it in
the last video I had some issues with getting it to have spark so I asked for
your advice down in the comments section and I got a lot of good responses glad
you said it could have been a kill switch could have been the grease I put
inside the connections could have been the spark plug wire there’s really a lot
of possibilities here so let’s break it down and really figure out what’s going
on with this thing so the easiest thing to check out and the first thing I look
at in a no spark situation is the kill switch so the kill switch plugs in right
here this is an open type kill switch meaning when it’s plugged in and the
button is not pressed down it’s an open circuit meaning there’s no connection
being made and then when you push the button down that creates the connection
and kills the motor so leaving a kill switch or having the kill switch plugged
in and free is essentially the same thing as just leaving the wires hanging
right here so having the kill switch on there is really only gonna complicate
matters in the event of this kill switch being faulty so I’m just gonna leave the
kill switch off and the next thing I would look at is all the connections
make sure they are secure and all the wires leading into them are solid so
that one looks good got one up here just kind of tug on the wires a little bit
nothing too crazy make sure that connection snapped in just kind of give
everything a nice little check over here that looks good and then we can look at
the grounds on the harness here so every bike or every harness is going to have a
ground on this bike it’s on the coil mount right here and I’ve had this thing
off a few times wire brushed it made sure it’s good to go so that’s
definitely not the issue another thing we could look at here is the spark plug
wire so this one is a little bit kinked I was a little bit worried about that in
the last video and a lot of you mentioned that could be the issue
as far as and no spark goes so I’m gonna pull the cap off here kind of look at
the coil or the wire where it goes in the coil make sure that that’s solid not
coming out of there and then another common issue is the spark plug cap not
making contact with a wire inside so I’m gonna pull the cap off and take a look
at that so as cap just twist off of the wire and should see some exposed wire
inside so to me it looks like there’s a good amount of wire coming out and
making contact with a cap so I’m an adventurer to say that is not the issue
so if you pull your spark plug cap off and you don’t see much wire there or
it’s really frayed you can chop a little bit off the end of the wire maybe like
quarter inch or so and you’ll expose a new strand there and that should solve
an issue but for now I’m gonna put this cap back on so this is a new plug but
just because crazy things happen and you never know whose spark plugs I’m gonna
pull it out and swap it out for a new one and it could be an issue so it’s
worth looking into plug books good I mean it’s new but just
for peace of mind I am gonna swap it out oh and one thing I forgot to mention
when I was on the subject of the ground is all of the motor mounts have to be
clean as well in order for the wiring to ground out properly
so we’ve got the motor mount plates that has to be clean in between the plates
the head the frame got the swing arm pivot – motor mount bolts down here so
all that has to be super clean in order for things to work and obviously on this
bike got things pretty fresh so that’s probably not the issue all right let’s
see if swapping out the spark plug will make a difference here so I ground out
the spark plug on the head somewhere and try to keep this thing over by hand
pretty quick shoot still doesn’t have spark so I’m
gonna have to dig into this a little further and electrical issues
they’re never fun to deal with all right I’m down here at the fly won’t stay
there and there’s a few things we can check down here the first being the gap
between the flywheel and the pulse generator so the pulse generator here is
adjustable that you just loosen up the screws and you can move it I haven’t
touched it so it should still be at the factory position you just measure the
gap between the flywheel here at the tab or the raised portion and the pulse
generator and that gap should be 0.46 millimeters it’s gonna feed this feeler
gauge in between there feels pretty good a little bit of drag and it’s not loose
so I would say that gap is good to go and the next thing we can check out is
the stator or the timing here so the stator has slotted holes on top and down
here on the bottom so you can adjust the state of position and that will change
the timing so actually come to think of it the timing needs we set when the bike
is running so that isn’t really possible right now and I don’t think that would
really affect the spark either so we have to move on to the next thing the
next issue I’m going to dig into is the grease that I put inside the connections
here so I’ve always done that dielectric grease and side connections
did it on the 125 never had an issue with it so it’s probably not the problem
but it is a possibility so I’m gonna check into it I’m gonna show you exactly
what I’m talking about here pull this connector apart so inside of the
connector here we’ve got the terminals and I put grease on those terminals so
I’m gonna take some contact cleaner and a little acid brush and clean those up
and score it a little this contact cleaner inside the connector
and the acid brush should be able to get all that out of there hit the other side
of the connector here it’s gonna let these sit for a few minutes and let that
contact cleaner evaporate actually just for a little peace of mind I’m gonna
blow it out with the air compressor no that was a good idea actually a lot of
crap coming out of there now I’m gonna move on to the CDI box and do the same
thing pop off the connectors and clean that grease out of there all right while
I’ve got the connectors apart and drying I’m gonna go ahead and test some of the
electrical components see if they read out fine for voltage and ohms so the
components most likely to fail are the stator the pulse generator and the coil
so we can go ahead and test those with a multimeter here but the one thing we
cannot test is the cd-i box whenever I’m testing electronics I like to start
right at the bottom right at the source so the pulse generator is up first looks
like we’ve got a blue and yellow wire green and white come up to the connector
here so I’m going to put the leads into the connector and test resistance and
voltage so I’m going to turn the multimeter to ohms here that little
symbol indicates ohms and go between blue yellow and green white wire and I
should have between 180 and to 80 ohms here all right we’ve got 230 ohms so
that falls between the 180 and 280 range and now to test for voltage switch the
multimeter over 2 volts and we want both DC so both of these see is gonna have
see it’s on AC right now indicates AC the straight line or salt
line with dotted line underneath is DC once again I’m going to go to the same
wires here yeah this is gonna be kind of tough to do with one set of hands
because I have to turn the motor over as well and I should have a reading of 0.7
volts or higher so a minimum of 0.7 volts as I turn the engine over alright
we’ve got a couple readings of over five volts so looks like the pulse generator
is good for volts and for resistance and next up I’m gonna test the actual stator
I’m gonna switch this thing back over to resistance or ohms and go between the
white and the yellow wire and we’re gonna need to see a number between 0.5
and 4 ohms here alright we’re around 1.7 1.8 and that
falls within the range so it looks like the stator is good next up is gonna be
testing the ignition coil and I’ve always found it’s easier to just pull
the coil off the bike since it’s kind of cramped in here you the first thing we’re going to test the
coil is the resistance between the terminal here and the spark plug cap
turn this thing on we should have between 9 and 16 ohms
here all right 10 point for that falls within the range
the next thing to test is the resistance between the ground and the terminal and
we’ll need to remove the spark plug cap for this and we’re looking for 0.12
point 3 ohms all right we got point 1 up to point 2 so looks like that’s good to
go and then the test for voltage the coil will need to be back on the bike
you absolutely got to make sure that cap is screwed on securely now for testing
the voltage on the coil we’re going to need to have a spark plug in the spark
plug cap grounded to the cylinder and then take the leads and the leads are
gonna go to the ground on the coil and the terminal on the Quayle you have to
pull up that boot a little bit get underneath there and while holding all
this in position I’ll have to turn the engine over and we’re looking for a
hundred volts minimum all right so coil test out good board voltage as well so
all these connectors should be dry and ready to go by now and I put things back
together and see if taking that grease out made a difference make sure this
thing’s snapping securely it should be good to go I really hope that grease was
the issue kind of doubtful but uh you guys know how I am sometimes I get a
little overboard with grease and Lube and who knows
all right there’s really nothing else to test I’ve gone through all the
components checked everything everything seems to be good so this is the moment
of truth see what happens here so I’ve got a
spark plug in there it’s gonna ground it on the head here and kick this thing
over by hand as fast as I can are you kidding me
seeing a spark what could it have been was it that grease yeah it does have
sparked yeah so it must have been that grease what I’m thinking is I must have
put too much grease inside of a connection and then once you have a lot
of grease in there and you connect the connectors it must have pushed something
apart that’s really the only thing I can think of I mean everything tested it out
fine all the connections were good coils fine I thought it was the spark plug
wire but I mean that was fine too so the only thing I could think of was the
grease and that’s really the only thing that changed I’m gonna turn the lights
out and see if it’s actually a nice fat bright spark yeah that’s crazy
whatever I’ll take it so learn from my mistake guys do not put tons of grease
inside your connections like I said before I did that same grease on the 125
I did on all my other builds never had an issue with it so I think I just put
too much in there all right so here’s the grease I’m using it’s called
dielectric grease and it doesn’t say anywhere on the tube that you’re not
supposed to use it on the terminals itself but I think what I’ll do from
here on out is just use it around the body of the connector instead of write
directly on the terminals and that should help keep water out I’ll show you
what I’m talking about here on the connector
the terminals inside that’s where I was using the grease and instead of that I’m
gonna put it around the outside of the connector here and that should help seal
off from water getting inside the connection so like I was saying I think
I put too much grease inside of the terminals here and then when you push
the connection together it must have separated or pushed something apart
inside of there kind of like hydro locked it in a sense so I’m just gonna
put a little bead around the outside of the connector here and there is a seal
inside of the connection as well so that grease combined with the seal should
make a pretty tight and waterproof seal come up to the cd-i box and do the same
thing up here still cannot believe that happened
anyways guys that’s gonna wrap in the video hope you guys learned a thing or
two I know I definitely did so learn from my mistake don’t put a ton of
grease inside your connections or don’t use any grease at all so now we can move
on to actually assembling the bike so I want you guys to write down in the
comment section below what I should work on next what I should
put on the bike next so for you guys looking to support the channel I do have
two new hat styles over on prime of XCOM we’ve got this curved build with the
prime cursive text on the front and a black flat build with a logo on front
really like how these hats turned out so if you want to pick up a new hat support
the channel I will have the link to the store down below in the description
alright guys thanks for watching until next time keep it private

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