Fixing Bad 3D Prints on a Creality Ender 3, CR-10 or CR-10 Mini


You’ve got it Ender three or a CR ten
mini you’ve cleaned your nozzle your settings are right but you’re still
occasionally getting that rough print or you’re getting spots in your print where
there’s a gap or no filament.What could it be? I’ll show you what it could be
on today’s Filament Friday. this week’s episode is brought to you by these
patreon supporters. if you have a Creality printer such as an Ender 3 CR
10 mini or CR 10 you may occasionally see on your 3d print little lines that
are like gaps. they almost look like a split in the print. it’s where no
filament has flowed sometimes it’s so bad it makes your print look really
really rough. now this could be caused by a block nozzle which I’ve covered in
previous videos. it could be your slicer settings retraction or it could just
be your extruder. here’s a perfect example of what I’m talking about. the
one in the center is good but the one on the right and one on the left you can
see there’s gaps. there’s spots where there’s no filament. it looks like it’s
about ready to fall apart. looks like a terrible print. this is what we need to
fix sometimes. it’ll just show up as minor little gaps like you see in the
print here on the big pawn. so the first thought would be you have a clog in your
nozzle and I explained how to fix this on a Creality machine with the PTFE
tube not going all the way down to the nozzle. but many people have done that
and say they still have this issue. there’s a good chance that’s related to
the extruder on Your creality machine. the arm itself can actually hang up and
then the filament starts to slip. your gear gets full of plastic and then the
flow is all off. and everything, your slicer, your firmware is dependent on
proper flow from the extruder. so if you’re getting slipping here, your print
is gonna be off. so we need to fix this. the issue really starts here in the arm.
listen to this. if it’s too tight it’s going to rub which doesn’t allow the
wheel to hit on the gear properly and that’s when you get slippage. and just by
opening and closing this to install or remove filament it’s like you’re putting
a wrench on this thing and slowly tightening it. it just happens over time.
so an easy solution course is to just loosen that screw
and what you do, listen. the rubbing is gone and it works properly. but then you
need to clean that gear off because that’s not gonna work. so what I like to
do is slip a piece of filament in, put a brass brush against the gear and then
just move it back and forth multiple times until that gear is clean. now you
should probably vacuum all those little pieces out of there as well but the main
thing is getting that gear clean and this is the easiest way I’ve found to do
it. another potential issue is the spring.
they do weaken over time and the creality extruder does not have an
adjustment screw to put more tension on it. so what some people do is they’ll put
screws in it, you know put a screw between the coils or a washer just to
reduce the spring effect and make it tighter. another option is to print
this extruder spring cup from user riff-raffs I found on Thingiverse. now I
had to upsize this 110 percent to actually work so I don’t know how his
worked with the original print but I printed it on my ender three 110%
and 50% fill and then I’ll show you how to install this. and it’ll help put
pressure on the spring and put a little more force on that arm so it rides
against the gear better. the first step is to remove the spring
which is actually pretty easy if you get some needle nose pliers. squeeze it in
the center and push forward it should pop right out. next to make it easier to install and
give us more movement on the arm you can unscrew the idler wheel like this and
once that’s out now we have more movement to the side. And should make it easier to install the spring with the spacer. so here’s the spacer that I
printed out. goes on the end of the spring like this. so I’m going to squeeze
the spring in the center just like I did before with the needle nosed and then
I’ll place the spacer on the post put the spring in place. push the arm out and
it takes a little bit of wiggling but it should pop in place. the next step is to reinstall that idler
wheel so just pull the arm and then the idler wheels drop into its location.
tighten the screw and then the idler arm is back to where it was but now it’s got
a shim so it’s gonna fit a little bit tighter against that gear. so this is
definitely an improvement. I ran a test print of these same components and you
can see it’s coming out very smooth, very good prints. so I had some slippage. it’s
all cleaned up and the problem is solved. I often get viewers asking me about this
and they’ve watched my video on how to get the PTFE tube all the way down to
the nozzle and they say that’s all done but I’m still getting lousy prints. and
in most cases this is what it is. that arm is hanging up and it’s slipping at
the gear. once they get that all fixed like I showed you, they’re printing
really good again and you have other options if you don’t want to do this.
there’s extruder tops you can put on your machine. there’s metal ones that you
can get instead of the plastic and there’s also the SeeMeCNC EZR which
i’ve shown in previous videos that i use for printing the real rubbery stuff like
ninjaflex. it’s the same extruder used on the SeeMeCNC Artemis that’s like a two
thousand dollar machine. you can use it with all materials not just a rubbery
material. and it works great so you’ve got a lot of options. but the main thing
is get that arm moving. get your gear cleaned up and you’ll see better prints.
so I hope this helped you out. if you like what I’m doing here maybe check out
some of the other videos that are popping up. you want to help support the
channel use the affiliate links in the description below or join me on patreon.
and if nothing else clicking the CHEP logo and subscribe. I’ll see you next
time right here at Filament Friday

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