Fixing Up My CR125 Two Stroke!

it is springtime all the snow is
thankfully melted so I’m gonna take you guys through what I do to my bikes to
get him ready for the riding season so here I’ve got my 2005 cr125 she’s
looking pretty clean but like any bike it’s gonna need some work to get it
ready for some riding the first thing I’m gonna cover is checking over the
fluids and making sure everything is lubed up on this bike we’ve got coolant
engine oil brake fluid and of course fuel for coolant it’s as simple as its
popping off the radiator cap and looking inside looks like it’s pretty well
topped off if you guys are curious this is the coolant thought I use engine nice
really good stuff if you’re unsure of when your coolant was last changed or
you haven’t swapped it out for the past year so I would recommend changing out
for something like engine ice now for oil with this bike being a two-stroke
it’s only got gear oil so there’s a fill plug up here no dipstick and then a
check plug for checking the oil level since this bike does not have a dipstick
you be able to check the oil level by pulling out to check bolt once you pull
the bolt out a little bit of oil should come out provided the bike is sitting
level preferably on a stand and for oil I use a shell rotella T 1540 and I
change it out at 10 hours of ride time so about every four to five rides
alright that’s it for the oil situation now I’m gonna check the brake fluid and
it’s as simple as just looking at the site windows on the brake master
cylinders I’m actually gonna take it a step further and bleed these brakes a
little since it has been a while and I’ve got a new little bleeding tool
motion Pro sent over this mini bleeder tool for me to try out never useful
before so this should be fun so how this bleeder Tool Works is slides onto the
bleeder valve on the caliper looks like I’ll have to pull off the guard to
access it but it slides on and it’s got a check valve inside of here so that way
you can leave the bleeder valve loose on the caliper and focus on pumping the
brakes and keeping up on the fluid level let’s give it a shot now with the bleeder tool McHale / I’m
gonna crack this valve loose so this wrench actually moves around so you can
get it in the right position he’s gonna crack this thing loose and start
bleeding the brakes so I’m just gonna go about a quarter turn loose right there
and I’m actually gonna put the end of the hose on this tool into the cap of a
water bottle so that should contain the fluid right there ah shoot I got my
gloves back in there yeah the master cylinder cap will need to come off so
that way I can add fluid now with the bleeder tool on the caliper
I can just pump the brakes and not have to worry about opening and closing the
bleeder valve on the caliper but of course I’ll need to watch the fluid
level in the master cylinder I’m just gonna top off the master cylinder of
fluid before I start bleeding the brakes so this is the brake fluid I’ve got
around the shop right now just regular Honda dot 4 brake fluid and
you want to make sure you use the correct spec brake fluid if your cap
says dot for use dot for so how this works is we want to have the valve open
and I push down the brake pedal it’ll push fluid and air out of the
system but the one-way valve won’t let air back in so I’m gonna push down the
pedal right now and see it pushed out some fluid and it didn’t let any air
back in once I pump the brakes a few times and close that valve back up the
brakes should have some great pressure takes a few pumps and build the pressure
back up but now the pedal feels great man that
tool is super nice to have works a lot better than I would have guessed takes
all the hassle out of bleeding brakes so I’m gonna run the master cylinder down
three times and that should get the majority of the old fluid out of the
system so I’m only going down till there’s about half the flew it in the
sight window here don’t really want to go any further down that all right that should be good for
bleeding it’s gonna close up this valve and pull it off the caliper just gonna
pop this master cylinder cap back on and I’ll be all finished up and then the
process for bleeding the front brakes is going to be very similar now for gas I
mix it 32 to 1 and I use Maxima castor 9 to 7
I’m gonna mix up some fresh fuel for this thing we’re gonna see if the old 125 still
runs bike seems to be run on prime so I’m
gonna take out riding this upcoming Saturday if you guys are in Washington
State more specifically the Spokane area join
me over at the seven-mile or Vee Park I’ll be out there this upcoming Saturday
April 14th and then the day after that April 15th
I’ll have these new prime of X shirts available over on the website prime MX
com so mark your calendars for that too all
right now it’s on to making sure what needs to be lubed up is lubed up and
that includes the cables clutch lever throttle chain and some of the bearings
I’m gonna start with the easiest thing first lubing up the chain this is the
chain lube that I prefer chain guard by maxima and I’ll be spraying it in here
on the inside of the chain near the chain guide now to have a buttery smooth
clutch lever most importantly you got to have a greased up here in the pivot and
having a nice lever definitely helps to the works can extra one I’m using here
is a must have so I’ll be completely pulling apart this clutch lever and
looping up the cable at the same time this porch and lever were definitely in
need of a cleanup Andrew greasing it’s been a while since I’ve freshen them up
another thing that can be taken apart and cleaned up is the cable adjuster
having a smooth adjuster is a big plus as for greasing lately I’ve been using
this mini grease gun a ton super handy to have and it puts the grease exactly
where you want it got the lever and the cable adjuster
working super smooth now it’s on the looping up the cable and once again
motion Perl hooked it up they sent over their cable looping tool along with the
cable loop now I’ve never used this design before should be interesting so
here I’ve got the tool out of the package looks like a pretty sweet setup
just gonna thread the two pieces away from each other looks like there’s a
seal inside of it so one color slips over and then the seal goes on with the
larger taper facing the end of the cable so something like that now I’m gonna
throw the other half of the tool onto the cable until the seals are firmly
seated just got to make sure the plunger is all
the way extended before I squirt it in any Lube the next step is to take the
straw from the cable lube and insert it into the tool all the way and now it’s
as simple as just spraying the lube into the tool this is crazy there’s not cable
loops spraying all over the place like with the other cable looping tools I’ve
used in the past all right I should have enough Lube in the cable now I’m gonna
pull out the straw and to get as much Lube out of the housing as possible I’m
gonna depress the plunger here now the real test is the check out the other end
of the cable and see if it’s soaked from the lube oh yeah she’s wet can’t wait to
get this thing back together and see how smooth the lever is now for the clutch
cable slack this is super important and it’s something I’m really picky about so
I like to go until there’s about the width of a quarter here between the
perch and the lever so I’m just tugging on the cable a little bit with some
tension and simultaneously pulling in the lever and you’ll be able to feel the
amount of slack the cable has there so right about there is right where I like
it and generally this is where most people like it as well and you
definitely don’t want to have no slack at all that’ll burn your clutch up right
away and too much slack your clutch won’t engage very well that is
unbelievably smooth now really impressed with the job that this little cable
would be tool did most definitely the best cable living tool I’ve used today
now for the throttle I’m gonna take it apart wipe it down and grease it up but
this definitely is not as important as the clutch lever if you have a sticky
throttle most likely it’s the cable or the throttle tube hitting on the end of
the handlebar was definitely worth pulling this one
apart to clean up so it’s just a matter of wiping things down and greasing it
back up all right I’ve got the throw housing
together cables on the tube and just gonna make sure everything’s working
smoothly here so I’m gonna slide the throttle onto the handlebars all the way
and then back it out just a little bit maybe like a quarter inch or so if you
have a throttle all the way on to the handlebars where the tube is hitting the
end of the bars you’ll have a sticky throttle and then if you back it out a
little bit that’s right where you want it it’s getting everything tightened up
here and then check the throttle one last time sweet nice and smooth now it
is possible to use the cable looping tool on the throttle cable but you’ll
need to go from the carburetor or throttle body end whatever you have if
you Lube from the top here they’ll dump a bunch of cable lube into your
carburetor or throttle body now I’m gonna take a peek at some of the
bearings on the bike make sure they’re in good shape for the wheel bearings I’m
gonna move the wheel laterally to see if there’s any movement to them looks like
it’s good to go and now to check the shock linkage bearings pull upward on
the swing arm and you’ll be able to see if there’s any movement in them if you
pull up on the swing arm and there’s some slop there chances are it’s the
lower shock bearing but it could also be these other three bearings as well or
the top shock bearing two now the swing arm pivot bearings don’t wear out that
often but if you have a worn set you’ll feel some sloppiness there or some
stiffness when you compress the rear of the bike what I look for with the
steering step bearings is any notch eNOS or just a rough feeling when I’m turning
the front end this one feels pretty good now this isn’t a bearing but it needs to
be greased as well the kick starter pivot so when it kicked over the kick
starter just go right back into place if you have a sticky kick starter you can
pull apart the pivot clean it up and we greased it I do have a video on that on
the channel so head over there and check it out
one thing I’ll check out before every single ride is the tire pressure of
course I go 14 psi up front and 12 in the rear as you guys know keeping up
when your spokes is super critical as well so my spoke maintenance consists of
check the spokes every three to four rides I
would say let us go through and tighten the spokes evenly and my process for
this is I’ll start at either the rim lock or the valve stem tighten the first
spoke skip to tighten the third skip to tighten all the way around till I come
back to that starting point and then move to a second spoke follow the same
pattern all the way around and then hit the third spoke all the way around again
and at that point every spoke will have been tightened evenly and I only usually
go about an eighth or a quarter turn on each spoke depending on how tight it
already is periodically I’ll go through and do a general check over of all the
bolts on the bike the ones that are most frequent to come loose are the kick
starter bolt the sprocket and rotor bolts and all of the plastic hardware so
those are the ones you really need to keep an eye on I know this video is
getting super long but there’s just a few more things I want to cover so for
the suspension seals I’ll compress the forks or the shock and
look for fluid on the tubes so if you have a leaky seal it’ll be pretty
evident next up is the brake pads and rotors for the pads you just want to
make sure there’s sufficient material left over
looks like these ones are getting down there but still some life left on the
rotor I’ll run my finger from the mounting surface to the braking surface
and if there’s a lip there that means the rotor has some wear most rotors have
a minimum thickness stamped on it this one is three point five mil so you can
just go ahead and measure the rotor and see if it meets the spec also a great
idea to check over your sprockets you want to look for bent or hooked out
teeth and the last thing you want to make sure you have a clean and oiled air
filter as you can see I’m running a filter skin big fan of them they work
really well to make it easy on you guys I’ll link all the tools and supplies
they use throughout the video down below if you would like to see more videos
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