How To Make Easy DIY Drawers w/ Blum Undermount Slides // Home Bar Pt. 2


What’s going on everybody, I’m Johnny Brooke
and welcome back to another Crafted Workshop video, and welcome back to part number 2 of
my home bar build. In this video, I’m going to go over building
these drawer boxes to work with the Blum undermount soft close hinges, which have this really
smooth soft close action. So, without further ado, let’s get started
with the video. I used ½” Maple plywood for the drawer
sides and ¼” Maple plywood for the bottom and broke down the pieces for the sides on
the table saw to start. Before moving on, let’s hop into SketchUp
so I can show you how these drawers need to be assembled to work with these Blum undermount
hinges. The inside faces of the drawers need to be
spaced 13/16” of an inch from the inside of the cabinet. While this sounds like a pretty
specific number, it’s actually pretty simple to work out the length of the front and back
of your drawer boxes with this measurement. First, I took the inside width of my cabinet,
22 ½” in my case, then subtracted 13/16” of an inch times 2, which is 1 ⅝”. This
left me with a measurement of 20 ⅞”, which is the length of the front and back panels
on my drawer box. The length of the sides are much easier, they
just has to match the length of the drawer slides, 21” in my case. The bottom panel of the drawer has to be inset
in from the bottom edge of the drawer box ½”, regardless of the thickness of your
drawer bottom, which was 1/4″ in my case, and this provides clearance for the slides. Finally, I needed to notch out the back of
the drawer to provide clearance for the slides. This notch needed to be ½” tall by 1 ⅜”
wide, and I’ll show you how I cut that later on, and I needed to cut that notch on both
sides of the back panel. That’s pretty much all of the measurements
you’ll need to build your drawer boxes, so let’s get back to the build. As I mentioned, I needed to have the bottom
housed in a groove, and it needed to be set in exactly ½” from the bottom edge of the
drawer. I set my blade height to ¼”, set the fence to ½”, and then made my first
pass on all of the drawer sides. After making the first pass, I moved the fence
over a little less than ⅛”, made a cut, since 1/4″ plywood is a little bit thinner
than 1/4″, made a cut, tested the fit on a piece of ¼” plywood, and then made a second
pass on all of the boards. You want the fit to be tight, but not so tight that the drawers
will be a pain to assemble. Next, I needed to notch out the backs of the
drawer boxes to accept the undermount slides, and I did this at the bandsaw. I feel like
this was one of the faster ways to do this, but there are plenty of options here. You
could use a dado stack on the table saw, or I know my buddy Shaun Boyd, who has a great
video on installing these undermount slides, uses a template and a flush trim bit. Anyway, as you’ll see, I accidentally notched
the fronts and backs of the drawer boxes, so I had to go back and recut the fronts,
but eventually everything was notched out correctly and I could move on to assembling
the drawer boxes. Once again, I called on pocket holes for assembly
here, which will be completely hidden in the finished drawer. Since I used ½” plywood,
I swapped over to the Kreg Micro-Pocket guide, which drills smaller pocket holes which work
better with thinner stock. You can use the standard pocket hole jig, but I got a lot
better results with this micro guide. Once that was set up, I drilled pocket holes
on each end of the drawer fronts and backs. Now that the drawer sides were to their final
size, I could cut my drawer bottoms to size. Again, I used ¼” plywood here. To assemble the drawers, I added a bead of
glue to the grooves and ends of the sides and then put the parts together. I then clamped
the drawer box together, used a mallet to make sure everything was flush, and then added
the screws. I used ¾” screws here, which are the perfect size for this ½” material. After adding the screws, I checked the drawer
box for square, and also checked to see if the sides were bowed at all. This plywood
was slightly warped as I mentioned and, if there was any bow, I just added a clamp to
the center until the bow was removed. Next, I just repeated the process for the
other four drawer boxes and then I could get the Blum slide hardware installed. This Blum system uses these two clips at the
front of the drawer boxes, which clip onto the slides. The orange levers allow you to
easily add and remove the drawers and also provide some adjustment to the finished drawer,
it’s really a cool system. To allow the drawer to accept the slides,
there are a few pretty specific holes you need to drill, though. First, a hole in the
back of the drawer accepts this pin on the back of the slides, which hooks into the drawer
box and keeps it securely in place. To drill these holes, I used this awesome
jig from Rockler, which is also where I got these slides. The jig has metal bushings to
guide the drill bits, which are also included with the jig, and the jig has a locator slot
which allows you to easily set the stop collar on the bits. Anyway, after drilling the holes on the back
of the drawer box, I used the same jig laid on its side to drill the pilot holes for the
clips. These needed to be drilled at an angle, and this jig makes that super simple. I just repeated the process on the rest of
the drawers and then I could move on to installing the slides. Once again, I called on another jig from Rockler,
this undermount drawer slide jig, which made installing these slides super easy. The jig
sets the proper setback from the front edge of your cabinet and also holds the slide securely
in place while giving you a nice clamping surface. I also cut some spacer strips out of scrap
plywood to help make sure everything was aligned, and these strips combined with the jig made
this honestly the easiest drawer slide installation I’ve ever had. I used a self-centering drill bit to drill
the holes and then added the screws. Once the slides were installed, I could install
the drawer, which just drops onto the slides and clips into place, and that was it. As
you can see, these slides have an awesome soft close action and the adjustability makes
them pretty much foolproof. Also, you can see here just how easily you
can remove the drawers by pressing the two clips. If you can’t tell, I freaking love
these slides and will be using them on basically every project I can in the future. I don’t
know why it’s taken me so long to use them. Anyway, to install the rest of the slides,
I would first cut down my spacer strips at the miter saw and then just repeat the process.
This went super quick and, once all four drawers were in, I could get this super satisfying
shot closing all of the drawers. The bottom of the bigger bottom drawer had
a bit of flex to it and I wanted to stiffen it up, since it would likely be loaded down
with heavier items. To do this, I added a strip of ½” plywood to the center of the
drawer bottom and just attached it with Krazy Glue. I weighed it down with a few gallons
of the black poly while it dried and it made a huge difference in the stiffness of the
drawer bottom. I went ahead and sanded the drawer boxes with
180 grit as well. And with that, the drawers were built and
installed, so I could move on to adding the false fronts, which I covered in the previous
bar build video, which I’ll link to in the cards in case you missed it, so that pretty
much wraps up this part of the series. Alright, hopefully you guys enjoyed this one.
These drawer slides were a little bit tricky to wrap my head around. I definitely have
to read the instructions multiple times and still ended up screwing up most of the parts
and having to recut them anyway. I still work have gone through it all again
because I absolutely love the way these drawer slides work. Again, this is part #2 of home bar series.
If you want to stick around for the rest of the series, go ahead and get subscribed and
ring that notification video so you don’t miss the next two videos. The next video is going to be on building
the glass inset doors for the upper cabinets and then the video after that is going to
building the butcher block countertops, which will really finish off this whole bar. Again, thanks for watching everybody and,
until next week, happy building.

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