Loom Along Class | Fair Isle Hats (5 sizes – Toddler, Child, Sm, Med, Lg)

– [Kristen] Make a fair isle
hat for the entire family from toddler all
the way to adult in five sizes on
the knitting loom, today on GoodKnit Kisses. (upbeat music) Welcome to GoodKnit Kisses. We’re all about helping
you stitch your love and love your stitches. I am so excited about our
family fair isle hats pattern. This is graded in
five different sizes; five sizes from toddler,
which is this size, all the way up to
a large adult size. Be sure and go to to the link down in the description
below to get your pattern. There might be a few slight
changes from what you see here, and of course, you see my
bad printer on this one. But you’re gonna get all
the information you need to create your own family hats. What we need are notions,
which is our loom tool here. A little crochet hook
that’s small enough to go in between the pegs
for a chain cast-on, or you could do a double E-wrap
if you don’t wanna do that. This is a size F
or 3.75 millimeter, if you need that size, or
whatever works for you. A tapestry needle. A row counter is a good idea. Also a tape measure, you’re definitely gonna want
a tape measure for this one. Some scissors, and I suggest some
stitch markers. I’ve got one different
one for peg one, and then a handful
of them for, like, maybe up to 12, depending
upon the size of the loom, for the crown, or the
top part of the hat, when it reduces and goes inward. You’re also going
to need your loom. We’re using a 3/8
(inch) gauge loom. So this one is a
fixed round loom. This is from a series of three, and you can use all
three in this pattern, from Knitting Board. It’s a 3/8 gauge
small gauge loom. 3/8 (inch) spacing
from peg-to-peg. And this one is 64 peg. This is 64 pegs here on the AllnOne loom
from Knitting Board, and you can do all five
sizes on the AllnOne. Now, if you choose to
do one that’s fixed, then you won’t be able
to reduce it as much. But we do have notes
on the pattern. Also another loom
that would be good is if you have
the X-shaped loom, the big X, and it is able to reduce
down, just like this AllnOne, there’s a picture I’m
gonna pop up above to do it on there. With the AllnOne,
or even a Kiss Loom, you’re gonna want
to be able to adjust these end sides and down. So on the AllnOne I put
the bolt on the outside, and move my sliders
to the inside, and you’ll see why
later on in the pattern. You’re gonna want a bulky
number five weight yarn. If I roll it over to the back you see that this
one is a bulky five, and US 10 needle with 15
stitches in a 4×4 square, four inch by four inch square, or 10×10 centimeter, 15 stitches across will get
you about the right gauge. And your stitches are a
U-wrap, we’ll go over that too. I’m using one ball
of each color. My main color here is Peony, and Smoke is my alternate color,
or my color two, or accent. It’s Paton’s Alpaca Blend
from Yarnspirations. There is 155 yards in
each of these balls. All right, grab your supplies
and get your pattern, and let’s jump into
all the details. All right, so first
thing’s first, a bit of housekeeping. We are going to be talking
about a graded pattern, which means that it is made
to work different sizes of an object. You can use this technique
in making sweaters and all kinds of things, today we’re gonna be
making it for hats. And so it is a really good idea to just get a
simple highlighter, so that you can highlight
which size you’re using, or take notes. So I’ve got one that’s
kind of a two-in-one, so I can take notes here. On the pattern, of
course as always, I’ve got several notes on here for when you’re not
watching me on video, and it’s some reminder things. If you skip over to, all the way to the measurements
size and sizes area, we’re covering size
toddler, child, small, medium, and large. The small is more
of a teen size, medium is more just a
generic women’s size, and large would be a men’s size, or just a large head size. When you get to measurements, here is where you can get
a little bit messed up, so that’s why I
recommend a highlighter. If you know you wanna
do the smallest size, which is I’m doing today, I go to circumference, and I know 15.5 is gonna
be the smallest size. See how in sizes
here it says toddler, and it’s before the parenthesis? I’m gonna highlight that’s
the size I’m gonna do today. So if you wanted to print off
all your copies for each size and highlight them different,
you could totally to do that. And you could even
make a note on there. We’ve got a couple of
handwritten notes on here, I’ll go over that
in a little bit, but this is the gauge, and this is what you want to
make a little gauge swatch. And I’ve got videos on
making gauge swatches. But I’ve got 16.5 stitches in a four inch, like,
in the width across, when I knit in U-wrap stitch, and 24 rows down in a four
inch swatch, or 10 centimeters. And so this size, with
the yarn that I used, which we went over
previous, is what I got, and that gets all
these sizes here. So back to the measurements. The circumference,
or the part around, is gonna be 15.5 in
the toddler size. If you wanna see
that in centimeters, then you would come over here to this 39.5 and
highlight that for you. I don’t use centimeters, so I’m not gonna highlight
that and confuse myself. And then where you see,
so 15.5 inches, and, and then it has this
part here, inches, that is the height. Okay, so 7.5 inches in height. So I’m not highlighting
the centimeters ’cause I don’t need that. So it’s going to be
15.5 inches around, and 7.5 from the
top of my hat here, all the way down. So from the top of my hat,
from here, down to 7.5. And all the way around is
going to be my circumference. Okay, so you’ll
wanna read the notes, we’re gonna go over
this in the video. But we’re gonna chain cast-on. You can also do a double E-wrap, or a long-tail cast-on, and see my other videos
on the channel for that. The item is gonna be
worked in the round. For right-handed knitters,
you’re gonna work clockwise, and for left-handed knitters, you’re gonna work
counterclockwise. All knit stitches are U-wrap, and I’m gonna show you how
to be careful about that, to work nice and loosely, if you’re used to
working really tight, ’cause I tend to be
a little bit tighter. And if you are
really, really tight, and tighter than me, then you might wanna use
the true knit stitch, but I think U-wrap is
gonna be good for you. I don’t recommend
E-wrapping on this project. There’s a reason, we’re not
gonna go into it in this video, but I don’t recommend it,
it doesn’t look as pretty, and you’ll see that you
love it this other way. This also talks about what I
talked about the fixed looms, or the non-adjustable looms, so read that if you
want more information. The fair isle technique, we
will go over in the video, and that is this here. We’re gonna make it to where it looks really
pretty on the front, we can hold two
yarns in the back, and the floats are not long. The floats are the
part in the back that kinda hang and
get long in the back. So it’ll have this
kind of speckledy look, but they’re not really, like, they’re not four stitches long, they’re only one or two
stitches wide in the back. Next we move on to page three. Page three kinda
continues talking about how to do the
fair isle technique, if you’re not
watching the video, or if you need a
visual reminder. So the main pattern falls
on the whole of page three. On the instructions, if we
go to the main part here, right where it
begins, instructions, with A, which is color
A, your primary color, so mine is this
Peony, the pink color. Cast-on, and this is where
we go before the parentheses for that smallest size, 64. If I want to go to
the next size up, then I go to either
72, 80, 88, or 96. And all I have to do if I
forget how that’s worded, I go back over to
where my sizes are, and you can see how it’s
written in the parentheses. So the first number right
after the parentheses is always gonna refer
to the child size. And if you wanna know
the measurements, you just go here, okay? Then we’re going to
work them in the round, and we’re gonna
knit our ribbing. I’m just gonna go over the
pattern first before we do it, and then we’ll actually
work the pattern. So then we’re gonna work a
little buffer couple of rounds, and then we’re going
to do this area here is where we are working
the main fair isle pattern. Then down here is
where we’re gonna work the top of the hat, okay? Now, during this process
when you see these, you’re gonna see all these
little parentheses notes. I recommend going on, before
you do any of the pattern, go through and any time you see
those parentheses like that, highlight yours. So my size right here is, I’m gonna go right
before this parentheses, I’m gonna do that. If I see the brackets
and it says centimeters, ignore that if
you’re not working with that type of
measurement, okay? Then I’m gonna come down
here, find the next place, continue working the pattern
until approximately five. Okay I come down here
and I see another one, I’m gonna highlight that one. I see another one,
another one, another one, and I just keep going. Okay? This is a great way to do it when you’re doing any
pattern that has been graded with lots of sizes. All right, so it looks
like I’m ready to begin. Make sure and have
this nearby you. All right, let’s begin. For cast-on, definitely you
wanna look at your pattern. I’m using the 64, again, and adjust your loom
to the right size. You’re gonna want a
stitch maker at peg one. I’ve already adjusted
my loom where I need it and put my peg one here. So now, because I wanna use
the chain cast-on for mine, I’m going to loosen my bolt here and move the slider
out of the way so that I can do
my chain cast-on, which I like to go to
the back side of it and use either my crochet hook, or you can actually do some
of that with your fingers if you like that better. But I find it’s easier
for this first few pegs to get this slider
out of the way; it’s just awkward if not. You can do a double
E-wrap cast-on, in which you put your
slipknot on the fist peg, and then wrap each peg twice, lifting up and over
with your loom hook. That’s the other
way you can do it, or a long tail cast-on. So in order to do the chain, we’re going to put our
slipknot on our hook. Make sure it’s a
good size slipknot, it’s actually kind of loose. Go ahead and put the
tail on the inside. And we’re gonna put
our hook and our yarn kind of hugging the
back of the first peg. So my working yarn’s out here, my hook is in between my
first peg and my second in the direction I wanna go. I’m going this direction here. And so I’m just gonna yarn over and pull through that
slipknot there, okay? Keep it nice and loose, we don’t wanna be
super tight on this. Yarn over and pull
through on the next one. So we’re just moving our
yarn behind this peg, moving this hook
behind this peg, yarning over and pulling
through that chain that is formed in the back. Okay, so yarn over pull through. And you continue going all
the way around this loom. When we get back, you’re gonna pause you’re
video, we’ll get back. Push your slider back into
place and lock it into position. All right, continue on and
we will see you in a moment. Okay, so we are down
to the very last peg. I’ve moved this slider in,
and we’re ready to complete. Now, there’s a couple
of different ways
I need to tell you, depending upon the
way you cast on. If you used the double E-wrap
cast-on, or the long tail, then I want you to take your
first peg and your last peg, okay, and switch them. You’ll pick up your first
peg with your loom tool, and put the last peg
on the first peg, and put the first
peg on the last peg, and you just switch them. And then when you start working, we’ll start at peg one
and just continue around. You can’t really do that as
well with the chain cast-on. However, you can just place
this one on the first peg, okay? You just place this very
last stitch on top, okay? Because of this
chain in the back, we wanna keep that chain
looking as neat at possible. So I’m just gonna put
that right on there. And I’m gonna go ahead and work
that, knit that over, okay? I’m not actually working
a first stitch yet, I’m just connecting
it in the round, so I’m just joining it. And now I’m ready
to start row one. All right, let’s begin. We are going to
knit two, purl two, and we repeat from this astrik, all the way around to
the end of the round. So knit two, purl two, and that’s expressed K
or P for knit or purl. You’re going to work
that for one inch for the smallest size. So the next size up, this is
how that pattern is graded, is going to be for
one inch as well. Then the third size
is 1.25 inches, 1.5 inches for the next two, so the largest sizes. You’re going to work
until you get the length, when you measure from
the back up here, to that size, okay? So we’re not expressing
it how many rounds you do, we’re doing it in inches. Which is also helpful if you don’t really
know the gauge just yet, so that’s fine. So how we do that is
we’re going to knit, we’re gonna go around
this first peg here, pull all the way back
to get the right sizing, lift up and over,
and that’s the knit. And then we’re gonna
go around the next one. And I like to, after
I’ve knit this over I’m gonna hold it with my pick
while I wrap the next stitch, and I’m gonna hold it in the
back and knit over, like that, so that it keeps that
gauge nice and loose. And then I can
hold it in the back and I can put my yarn
to the front for a purl. And purl, pull
that loop up, okay. Pull it off, put it back
on, and tighten it up. Not too tight. And then we’re gonna
purl the next one. So we are putting
our yarn below, scooping up a new loop, taking the old one off, putting the new one on, and then tightening that up. All right, so let’s do that
one more time down here, and I won’t try and pick it up. So we’re gonna take our yarn, go all the way around
to the back like that for a U-wrap shape, so it makes that U, and we’re gonna knit over. And how I’m holding it, whoops! While I’m holding at the back
like that on the knit stitch, I can go around the front
and wrap the next one and lift up and over. So this is especially
good for somebody who tends to U-knit
wrap really tight, so when you pull the next
stitch it becomes more flat. Because if you just knit it and
then pull it really quickly, it’s going to make this
too small of a gauge. So now we’re gonna hold it
to the back here, and purl, so that we get a little
bit extra yarn there, and I’m spacing. So knit two purl two
all the way around, until you reach the desired
length here, all right? Pause your video, and I’ll meet you back
up for that next step. So we’ve got worked
all the way around, and you can come
in here and say, “Okay, am I at my one inch
for that smaller size?” You just hold your one
inch here up at this line, kinda hold it to the back, and pull down and measure and see if you are
at the right length. And once you get that length, you’ll stop with
the ribbing section, and then you’re going to
work two rounds of knitting. And this is all kinked up, you can see I
actually took some off because I went too long on here. And if you’re not
sure on the length, you can take off all of your
stitches with some scrap yarn, and take it off of the
loom and measure it to be more precise. So if you want a more
precise measurement, I always advise taking
it off of the loom. It takes a little longer, but it’s worth it for
more accurate sizing. So we’re just gonna go around
that front, the stitch, and start working my U-wrap
knit all the way around. There are no more purls
throughout the video and throughout the pattern. So here is how we’re
gonna be working all of our knit stitches
throughout the pattern. So you can see, after
I do a knit stitch, I’m holding that yarn towards
the back a little bit, and then I wrap it. So I’m holding it, and
then I wrap the next peg, and then I lift my hook off, and then I loop over
that next one, okay? So continue going
along like that, and this’ll get you
in a really good habit for when you start the
fair isle section, okay? Keep going around, two rounds, and pause your video. I’ll meet you back
up for the fair isle. See you soon. We are not breaking the yarn, the pink, or the color
A, that we started with, and we’re going to add
on contrast, or color B. And proceed as follows for
round four with B, color B, we’re gonna knit one, and then
we pick back up our color A, and we knit three. And then we repeat to the
astrik back here with B all the way around. And then you drop B
and you don’t break. Now, if I keep doing that, I’m gonna have this
gray, which is B, and then a long
strand in the back where the three, where I’m
waiting to pick back up in the B again. So I’m gonna show you how to
use the fair isle technique, which is written out
starting on page two where it says Fair
Isle Technique, and I’m gonna show you
everything that’s written here. So if you wanna see
this written out, please be sure and
refer to the pattern. And let’s go ahead
and work this now. So we’re gonna take our B yarn, and we’re gonna
take the yarn for A, and kind of hold it
to the back here, and then put a
tail on the inside, and wrap around peg one, and knit just as normal, okay? And now we’re gonna do
something a little different. So I’m gonna put the
color B on the left, okay? So I’m gonna take my whole ball and move it over. I’m gonna put B on
this side over here, and I’m gonna put A on
this side over here. I actually have
it in front of me. So I just wanted you
to see, significantly, that it’s two
different hands, okay? This means something. So I’m gonna lay this tail
in here to not confuse you. All right, so I’m ready
to move on with… Actually, let me move
this underneath here. All right, there, now I have
it exactly how I need it. I’m going to go on by
not using this B here. And we’re gonna have A, and go around and work
the second stitch. So this is we’re supposed
to knit three in color A, so I’m gonna knit that one. Now, I need to skip this next
stitch in this darker yarn. Okay, we’re gonna
take B, or gray. I’m just gonna
say gray and pink, it’s just easier on this video. I’m gonna take the gray and
I’m gonna move it forward in between the second
and the third peg, or basically my
next two pegs, okay? And then I’m gonna wrap
the pink around that stitch like I need to work it, yeah? ‘Cause that’s the one I want. I’m gonna go ahead, and
before I knit that stitch, I’m gonna move it to the back. I’m sorry, move the
gray to the back, okay? And just hold it there. And now I can pinch it
in the back and hold it, kinda to keep my gauge, right? So now we’re just gonna
knit off that stitch. And what it did is it trapped
my gray yarn back here, and now I’m gonna
keep it in the back, take my pink again, and go around and
knit the third stitch. Now you see this
now, so it’s on top? This yarn is on
top of this yarn. And when I go forward, it’s going to catch it
again in the back, okay? And go around, all
the way around, and knit that over. So now I have the next
three stitches knit, but I don’t have a
long float in the back. I’ll show you the longer
float in a moment, just in case you wanna do it. Now I’ve got my gray
has moved along, and it’s ready for me to
work this next stitch. This is where the astrik is. So I’m gonna just knit
this stitch back here and get the gray going, okay? And we’re gonna grab the pink, and knit that next stitch, okay? Now, so every other one, instead of knitting
the gray in the front, I’m actually just
gonna move it forward, wrap around with my other hand, and the move this one back. See how I’m using two
hands at the same time? So I’m gonna move
the gray forward, wrap with the pink, move the
gray back, knit over, okay? Then we’re gonna wrap the pink, that’s that third stitch. Knit over, okay,
ready for a gray. Wrap with the gray, knit over. Wrap with the pink, knit over. Move the gray forward,
wrap with the pink, move the gray back,
and knit over. And wrap with the pink. So I have just
done three repeats, one, two, three, of this stitch pattern. This is the fair
isle stitch pattern. This is for round five. I’m sorry, round four, okay? So you’re gonna continue
all the way around working this, okay? When we come back, you’re going to knit
one round in the pink. I’m gonna show you
though before we move on, I wanna show you what
a float would look like if we did not do that. So I’m gonna go ahead
and knit a gray, okay? And then we’re gonna
knit three pinks. I’m gonna ignore my
gray in the back. Don’t do this, just
watch it, okay? And now I’m gonna
grab that gray, because I need a gray
on my fourth stitch, and knit over. Well, let’s look in the back. Do you see this
really long thing, I’m calling it a float
’cause you can see how, whoops, I didn’t
even knit it over. You can see how it’s
just hanging on. It’s just this
really long thing. But here it’s nice and short. Once you get a whole
bunch of ’em in here, it’s actually not noticeable. What’s gonna happen is it’s gonna look like
this in the back. See how pretty that looks? But can you imagine how messy
it would look like this? And if you got a
ring caught in it, or a hair tie, or
anything like that? So you’re going to
continue working the way I just showed you. Back up the video,
pause, slow down, rewind. Whatever you need to do, and I’ll meet you back
up for the next rounds to show you what to do. All right, so I’m gonna show
you how to undo that (laughing) if you forget. I’m gonna go back here,
move this forward, wrap around, move it back, and that’s how you trap it in, and then you just work
your third stitch as normal with the pink. And then now I knit
that gray, okay? So now I fixed the back. Pause your video and
complete round four, and I’ll see you soon. All right, so your round
four should look like this. All your floats are trapped in. You’re going to ignore
this gray color, or your color B. And go ahead and work one round
in color A, or contrast A. So that’s this area
here, round five. With A, knit. When we come back, I’ll show you how to
alternate on round six. Pause your video and
I’ll see you soon. You are ready for the
rest of your pattern on the fair isle, which is round six and seven. So seven is just
the same as five, so you just knit a
round in between, with just the plain, the
main color, which is A. But the trick here is
when you get to six. So you’re going to shift
that alternate row. So it’s going to look like this. So the first round we
worked this pattern here, so we worked this accent. And then we have a round of
just the same main color here. And then the next
round just shifts over. So what we do on this first one, is we’re gonna be placing
the color down two stitches, where we were moving
the color forward. So what we should do here
is with the gray color, we’re going to move
our yarn to the front, or in between, then wrap around, and then pull that
yarn to the back, okay? If you don’t, you may pull the
gray too tightly when you go to knit
this next stitch, so this could get really
caught up and not even. You want it nice and even, so you’re gonna give it that
extra allowance of space. Because if you don’t do that, you’ll get that long
float in the back, which will actually
not be gauged right, and it will be
actually too short. So again, this is
the way you do it. So let’s run that again. Instead of slow motion, I’ll just slow it
down what I was doing. I have the yarn coming
out from the back from that two rounds before. I have my pink yarn here. I’m going to move this
gray yarn forward, which is between the very
last stitch and my first one. Gonna go forward
like this, okay? Like that. And then we’re gonna wrap
around peg one, okay? And then we’re just gonna move
that yarn to the back again. You see that? So I just had it here like that. And I’m just moving it
on top of it here, okay? And now we can knit
over that first stitch. It’s a little harder on
this rectangular loom here. Your loom may look a
little different than mine. I just want to make sure that you add that extra
amount of yarn in the back; that’s really crucial
on this round. Okay, and then you’re going
to knit that second stitch. So basically you’re
knitting two, one, two, with color A. And then you’re going to knit
color B for the accent here. All right? So now we’re gonna continue on with that same pattern
that you did before. It’s the exact same thing. You’re going to, after you’ve worked a
B color, or the gray, you’re going to knit
with the A one time, and then you’re going to
move your gray forward, wrap with the pink, pull the gray to the
back, knit over, okay? And then wrap with the
pink for the third stitch. So we have three in the
pink and one in the gray. Now we need a knit gray
stitch, with is the B. Knit that over, work the pink. Knit it, do the stitch here
where we’re gonna hide it. Oh, not hide it, we’re
gonna lock it in. So bring the gray forward,
wrap with the pink, bring the gray to
the back, knit over. And wrap with the pink. That’s our third knit stitch. And repeat with the gray again. Now that you can do a round six, you’re going to knit
a round seven in A, just as we did on round five, and rounds four through seven form that fair isle pattern. And then you’re gonna
continue in the pattern until work from
beginning, or that brim, measures approximately 5.5
inches for the smallest size, and continues on up
with these other sizes. Now, if you notice, I did
change it, it was five. I just noticed the error, but the rest of the
pattern is correct. I just, I noticed it. So the rest of the video
actually says five in it. Ignore that. Just see what’s actually
in your paper pattern. So the fair isle pattern
is just these four rounds. You’re gonna continue
just like this one, until you get the
measured length, okay? I recommend getting a
scrap piece of yarn, so get some contrasting yarn, something that’s nice and
smooth, not too fuzzy, and not the same yarn as this, especially if this has a
natural wool or something that’s gonna kind
of grab onto itself. And you just put it
through all the stitches, take it off of your loom,
and then you can measure it on a hard table really well. This is a great time to measure your
stitches for your gauge, if you forgot to do it as
a smaller little sample in the very beginning. And then make sure when
you pull it off the loom, looms always stretch it out. So if this is your first hat, or you haven’t done very many, it always stretches out
the stitches like this, and so when you pull it off, you wanna kinda pull
on it like this. This one I’ve actually taken
off loom and put back on, so it’s really in the
proportionate amount
of stretched out. So, anyway, go
ahead and do that. Knit your stitches,
pause your video, come back when you’ve
got it the right length. And we will move on with the top part of
our pattern in shaping. See you soon. Once you have the
length that you want, you can cut this color B here, and just let it lay
inside your loom. We’re only going to be working with the main color throughout, which is contrast or color A. This section is for when you
have knit to the proper length, and we’re going
to shape the top. Let’s look at our pattern. We have a section for
non-adjustable looms only, and then we have shape top. So once you’ve worked your
pattern length right here, then if you have a
non-adjustable loom, which is one of
these round looms that you can’t use the
sliders and move in, then you’re going
to go to round eight and knit around in the
main color for one inch. So you work round
eight for one inch, and shape top. So you continue to shape top and working rounds one
through seven only. So one through seven here
is all you’re gonna do in shaping for your top. So you need this extra inch. Doing both of these together
will get you about one inch, and if you have
an adjustable loom like this one back
here, the AllnOne, or one of the other adjustable
looms on the market, you will do the shape top
rounds one through 13. If you still want your
pattern to be longer, like when you looked at
the original sizings, the original measurements, and you said, “Oh,
on the height, “I actually want it a little
bit longer than this,” you wanna add an
inch or whatever, this is the place
to do it right here. So do that before you start
the shape top section. All right, so we’re gonna
continue on the pattern. Be sure to work it,
you’re extra inch here, or start here. We’re gonna start
with round one, working your first decrease. Grab your extra stitch
markers and we’ll begin. To shape the top, you’ll notice on
the instructions that it says round
one with A, knit six, and then knit two
together, repeat around. So that’s every eight stitches. So we want to take our
extra stitch markers, which are different
from our peg one, and we’re gonna go
ahead and place them at every eighth stitch. So I kinda pulled this
one so I can see it. It’s one, from the beginning. One, two, three, four,
five, six, seven, eight. I’m gonna pick that stitch
up and place my marker. And I’m gonna go ahead and
move my seven to my eight, because this is where we’re
knitting two together. And the reason why I want to
mark with this stitch marker is because as we
move our stitches in, if I keep my decrease everywhere
I have my stitch marker, then I’ll have this
really nice reduction and all my decrease
stitches are gonna line up evenly and nicely. That’s why I wanna pay
attention where my first peg is and all that. So go ahead and
take your markers and go all the way around. So now we know that this
next one is a peg one, so to speak, and
count off eight. So one, two, three, four,
five, six, seven, eight. Pick that up, place the marker, and move peg seven
onto peg eight. Just like that. Once you go all the way around, then you’re actually
going to do what it says, and you’re going to knit six, so you would knit
these first ones, and then you’re gonna
skip that blank one and leave your yarn in the back, and then knit
these two over one, so you would knit
those two together. So let me show you that now. So this is round one. I knit one, two,
three, four, five, six. Leave that yarn in the back
and knit these two together. And then you repeat. So you’re gonna do that
all the way around. Pause your video and come back. We’re gonna move the stitches
inward together next. Okay so the next round after
you decrease is a round two, which is knit. So every other round
is going to be knit. There are no decreases. So before you can do that, you need to move the
stitches in by eight. So on this loom, I can loosen this bolt here, and then scoot my
slider in by once, which reduces it by
two on this side, and then another two to four. And then I do that on
the other side here. But, I’m going to have to
move some stitches inward, in order to get it there first. So you’re gonna leave
the ones in the middle relatively the same, you just kinda have to decide which ones you’re gonna do. So to make it easier, let’s look first before we move. On the end I have one
that’s missing here, you can see that my last
stitch marker is here. I’ve used eight
stitch markers around on this particular size. I’ve got a missing one here
and a missing one here. So I know I can move this
over twice on this side, and get these two empty. Okay, so I’m gonna kinda
mark this with my finger. These are gonna go on this side. Over here, I have a missing one
here and a missing one here. So if I move all my
stitches down that way, I know that I have two that
I can move down on this side. So it’s these here, okay? So these here are gonna
move down this way. So this empty one here
and this empty one here are gonna be taken care of here, and then I have an empty one
here and an empty one here, so these are gonna
move this way. So you just kinda
have to gauge and go, oh, I know that I’m gonna be
moving these stitches from here over down this way, okay? And I’m gonna be moving
these stitches down this way. But down here I’m gonna be
moving them towards here, okay? I don’t know if that
makes sense to you, but you’re gonna kinda
have to look at that every time you wanna do it. So I’m gonna start moving
these stitches down, just walking them over, okay? So I won’t go over
this on every round, but I can kinda point
it out a little bit. So we just start moving
the stitches one by one, and if it gets a
little bit too much, you can kind of push that
slider in and move it that way. You can also pick them
up and hold them as well. And once I’ve moved this one, let’s go ahead and pick up
peg one’s stitch marker there, and see that, okay. So we’re gonna move that in. I’ve only moved
this down by one. I’ve gotta move it
down one more time. So I still have this one here. So I’m gonna move this
last peg here, okay? And then I’m gonna
move the first peg here to this slider, all right? So now I know it’s gonna
go all the way down here. So now I need to move
these stitches in. Okay so I’m just
gonna pick them up. And when I move them over, if they have a stitch marker, I need to move them
with that stitch marker. And that’s important so we
can see all the decreases all lined up together
on the top of our crown. It’s a much nicer look. All right, so I’ve
moved those down. I need to move ’em one more, and then there’s
that empty peg here. So I’ll pick this
up and move it down. It’s a little bit tight. All right. So if it’s a little bit tight, what you can do is pick them
up like this one by one, and kinda walk it down, okay? If you’re gonna do that, again, remember that you may
have a stitch marker, and you’re gonna have to grab
them all at the same time and make sure and not lose it. So, don’t wanna drop
that stitch there. There we go. And just continue. Oh, that one’s still tight. I’m gonna have to knit
that stitch over again, ’cause it kind of unknitted. All right. You can see that was a
little tight to work. Once I get this last one on here I’m gonna go ahead and
make an adjustment. I’m gonna fix this, and that belongs on here, so let’s just knit that. There we go. See, I just adjusted. Okay, so I’ve already
moved these down. Let’s go ahead and make
this line-up correctly, and screw that on. Okay, so now you
know how to do that. It’s taken me a while
to move those down. You’re just gonna start
moving and walking these other stitches down here, so we know how we
did it on this side, you’re just gonna continue
doing it over here. So now that you know
how to move those in, go ahead and
continue moving them. You’ve got some extra slack, so you can go ahead and tighten up your
row just a little bit, and pull the slack
out like that. And make sure, so this has
a little bit extra here. So you might wanna kinda
pull on it, you know, see how once you
move the stitches in it’s got a little
bit extra slack? And then pull on that and
get that nice and even. And then knit your round, which is the round two. Pause your video, I’ll meet
you back up for round three. See you soon. Okay, so I’ve reduced
my stitches down, and then I did an extra
round of knitting. Now we’re back and round three. And instead of knitting six
and then knitting two together, we’re knitting five. So you can see that rounds
three and five and seven reduce by one each time. It was six, five, four, three, and actually round
nine does two, round 11 does one, and then we knit
two together here and we completely
eliminate the one before, so that’s how all
these rounds go. And then in between is a knit. And if you wanna double check
your stitch count afterwards, these numbers here will
show you what it reduces. So once you do this part, your number will reflect this. So the main looking
(observing) that you need to do is when you’re moving them. So now, I just knit five
together and I will know that because this stitch here with
the stitch marker on there, you’re going to put the
one right before it, you’re gonna move that on top. Once you move that on top, you can see that my peg
one, that needs to be knit, that’s one, two,
three, four, five, that’s that knit five. And then knit two together. And then over here, knit
five, knit two together. So I’m gonna pick up
the second to last one, and move it on top
of the stitch marker, which is what we did before, and keep doing that all
the way around, okay? So we just move our
stitches to decrease. Then we actually work
the row to decrease. Then we move the
stitches inward. And then we knit one more round. So that’s all we’re doing. So we knit five together,
knit two together, repeat from around. I’ll go ahead and show you how
I’ve worked the stitches in. But you will see, I’m gonna give you a hint as
to how to move this inward. So I’ve got an empty peg
that’s gonna appear here. And do you see the stitch
marker inside here? This one next to it
is gonna be empty, so it’s gonna move in. So that’s what we did before. So you see how my stitch
marker moved in one here? So I’m actually gonna move
my peg one down again, and move these this way. Then I’m gonna look at the
two empties on this side, and move them this way, so that I keep pushing
in this slider. Oh, let’s not move it just yet. But this slider’s gonna
move in by two again, okay, one, two. And then it’s gonna
move in one, two here. So I’m gonna pause my video and show you where it is again. And we won’t spend too
much more time on this. But it just keeps
reducing this way. But I’m gonna come back to it, just so you see where mine is. All right, continue
working on round three, and then round four is a knit. Pause your video, and I’ll
meet you back at round five. See you soon. Now this is just after
two rounds of decreasing, and you could start seeing how it’s kinda puckering
up in the back. You can see it kind of
going inward like this every so often. What it’s doing on
the inside here, which is actually
the right side, you can see the stitches are kind of leaning
over that direction, and they’re here as well. They are constantly leaning
on top of each other in the same direction, because you are putting
the stitch right before on top of that stitch. If you switch them every time, then you’re confusing
the top of it, and it won’t have a really
nice same-leaning decrease. So you’re going to go
ahead and continue on. Round five, you’re just
going to knit four, and then knit two together. So moving that second
to last stitch over, putting it on top. And I had moved my stitch
marker in one more for peg one, so that’s one, two,
three, four that are knit, you’ll have that blank
one, and then here. So you don’t have to really
think about it as much now. Just keep moving
and reducing, again, when you have those empty ones, you’re gonna move this side
over two pegs in this way, which is four, two pegs
in this way over here, which gives you that eight. And it will be further reduced. Remember to get that extra
knit round in between, or it’s not gonna have
enough length in your hat. All right, go ahead and
continue rounds five, so the sixth round in between. Do round seven. And then we’re gonna
pause and stop, talk to the non-adjustable
knit people, and kinda tell you
where to go from here. All right, pause your video, and I will see you
soon after round seven. And I am this place right
in the pattern here, round seven. I’ve just completed it at 32. So right here where
it’s bolded it says, if working on an
adjustable loom, continue in pattern as written. Which means that you would
add another round eight, before you go to round nine. So you’re gonna
knit another row. I’ve actually gone
ahead and knit… Or not a row, but a round. I’ve already went
ahead and knit a round. If you’re working on a
loom that’s non-adjustable, knit one more
round, which I did, and continue to the
asterisks below. So, you’ve knit around,
technically around eight. And then you go all
the way down here, and then you’re going
to thread the end through remaining stitches
and draw up tightly. Basically, you’re gonna
go around your loom and measure off enough yarn that’ll go through
all the stitches, and then you’re gonna pull
it and draw it up tightly. I’ll still do that
on this pattern. But let’s continue
on for the next one. So knit around. And now we’re going to knit
two and knit two together. And it’s the same
as done before. All right, so we’re gonna
move these on down now, and so you’re gonna
have knit the one, two, knit two together, all the way around,
knit it around. And then after you get to that, you’re gonna knit one,
knit two together, because you’ll have
this one down here, so you knit one
and then this one, and the one next to the marker
is going to be knit together. So I will join you back
around for round 13, and then we’ll finish
off at the end. Okay, so we have
finished round 11, and knit one more
round in between. And I have 16 stitches
on this smallest size, and it is very tight. And in fact, it’s really hard
to get it all the way in, because it’s bulky
in the middle. But that’s okay. Our goal it to get this
as small as we can, and you can never get this that
small on something like this if you don’t shrink it down. And in fact, if you
have one of these looms and you did most of it this way, you could probably
start shrinking it down by moving it to
one of these looms. It’s just that you might
have extra, excess yarn. So as you’ve been
working on this, you may have been pulling
out a lot of extra slack. And having an adjustable
loom like this is really nice for that. So I did knit my extra round, which is the round 12. So now all you’re
gonna need to do is take the first peg and
move it over to the second, and you can see that
moving a little bit. And then take that third peg and move it over to
the fourth like that. And then at knitting
that together. If you have a hard time
moving them at all, you can also do this, this is another little trick, which you could have
done earlier on, but I really didn’t
want to show it to you, because you can
kinda get messed up on moving your stitches
around too much early on. So anyway. What you can do is
knit that first stitch that you want to be moving over, and then knit the next one. So let me do that over here. I’m gonna work these stitches. So I’m gonna move, I’ve already moved this stitch. So I’m gonna knit this one over, so I’m wrapping and
then knitting over. And then I’m just
gonna lift this bottom up and over the top. Okay, so if I haven’t
moved the stitches, what I do is I knit the
stitch that I’m gonna move, then I move that stitch and put it on the next stitch that I’m trying to
knit together with it. And then I just
lift up and over, and it’s already moved, okay? I’m gonna turn my loom
and do the next one. So knit it, pick it
up, and move it on top of the one that’s marked. And just lift up
and over and it off; don’t actually wrap it again. And do that again. Knit it, move it on
top of the marker one, lift it up, and off. And do the next one. And then over here. And knit it over. And then knit this one and
pick it up and move it over. There you go. And then the last
one, with that. Whoops. There we go. And lift it off. So I’ve got it down to eight. And then it says break
yarn, leaving a long end. So I actually don’t
knit another round, so I don’t have to worry about moving these
stitches in or anything. And then we’re going
to thread the end through the remaining stitches, that’s what those little
abbreviations are. And you always, if you’ve
gotten lost before, you would’ve wanted to refer
up to abbreviations up here. So we’re gonna thread the end
through and draw up tightly. Fasten securely and
weave in the tail. So let’s do that now. The way to get enough long tail is to go around this loom, just go in whatever direction, and give a little
bit extra here. I may use my loom tool here. I like to pull it
up from the bottom. To me it’s just easier. Do that, then I can
take that loop off. Come over here, do the same. Pull that through
and lift it off. Go to the next one. Whoops. Pull it through, lift it off. Just continue going
around your loom, and finish yours off. And then when you’re
coming to your last one, go on through. And then it’s gonna
be tight on this one, so what I can do is, once I get it through
that last stitch, I’ll just leave it where it is, and then go ahead and loosen
up my sliders like that, and then I can pull it
through this way, okay? So you can see that it’s
a little bit pointy here. So I’m just going to
kind of stretch it and pull it out like this. Kind of hand block my
stitches like this, okay? And so you can see that I’ve significantly
reduced this crown, or this top of this hat, and you can see where
all the sections were, and it has this
nice reduced stitch, has this little, like a
pinwheel pattern at the top. And so we’re just gonna
pull those stitches tight. And it’s got a really
cool, tailored look to it. And before you pull ’em
all the way through, that’s when you’re
gonna thread your needle and go down inside, and we’ll weave in those tails. Okay? Let’s just turn it inside out. And you can see, it’s added about two
inches to the top here. So if you had only done
part of the crown reduction, then you would have needed
to add that extra inch before you started it in order for it to
have enough length. All right, so I’m just
gonna pull it through a couple of these stitches here, and leave a nice
little loop here, and I’ll pull that on through. And that’ll secure that. And you can check it
on the other side, make sure you like how that is. There’s a little
bitty hole right here, so you can actually just
kinda gather that up and close that gap. It shouldn’t be too big. It may also depend on
your yarn and your loom. And that kinda pulled
that in together. And you can pull in other
stitches if you need to. But it should catch most of it. On needles you can
do this very easily, but with the loom we’ve got so much extra
spacing that’s involved. See, that’s really
drawn-in nicely. I think that looks really nice. And then I just gonna go through
a couple of stitches here. And then I’ll cut
my tail in a moment. And then you’re gonna wanna
weave in these tails here. And you can see how the
floats are not very long. This is my beginning
of my round, that’s why it looks a
little bit different here. And you wanna make sure
and get this one woven in, and this one woven in. I wanna show you
how to do this one. I think you can figure
out how to put these in. But this one, little trick
where the ribbing is, and I’ve covered this
on another video, and I’ll go ahead
and cover it here. I go in through the
back and up the side, and over to the ribbing section. Okay, so you’ve got it let up to the back of this
purl stitch here. And you see how there’s
a little bitty bump from where it began? You can actually draw it in and finish off this chain here to get it more even. So I’m gonna go through
this little chain edge where this stitch is. It’s pointed like a V. I’m gonna go around, and
then around the outside here, and all the way over here. And then that draws that
in a little bit more. And then I’m gonna go up
through the back of this, it looks like knit stitches, but it’s actually
the back of the purl. I mean, they are knit
stitches on this side. And I’m just gonna go
around the side of them. And if you have a
bent tapestry needle that’s actually metal, it actually goes around
here really well. And so when you get it
worked into the side of this ribbing here, it retains it’s stretchiness and you don’t have to worry
about making it too stiff, it’s still gonna be a nice,
stretchy brim for someone. Especially on the smaller
hat for, say, a toddler, or a child, it’s not gonna be
hard on their head. And so once you get
to that end there, you can go ahead and
cut off your tail. I like to go back through and
get it in there real good. Finish weaving in these tails, make sure that you’re not
pulling on it too hard to pull on these other stitches. And I’ll show you my
finished in just a moment. Well, here is the decreased
crown, the top on it, with the shaping on
the toddler size hat. And of course, I got that around some
random yarn (laughing). But this has a
really pretty top. I hope you enjoyed it. And the floats inside, I
think look really nice. It feels good, it’s not
catching on anything. I wouldn’t be afraid about
catching it on my ring. So if you wanna see
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(upbeat piano music) and happy knitting. Thanks for joining up today, where we help you stitch your
love, and love your stitches. See you again soon!


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