New Suspension For The CR250!


so as you guys can tell got my
suspension parts back and my initial thought when I pull them out of the box
was I was kind of disappointed I was shooting for a completely different
color I’ll actually put a picture up on the screen right now of the color I
requested and the color I got back was like this turquoise color it’s a really
cool color I think it would look great on certain bikes but not quite the look
I was going for so I contacted the company that did the coatings sgb and
they said I could send them back to have them redone but I simply just cannot
wait the extra five or five and a half weeks to turn these parts around so I’m
just gonna have to slap these things together how they are and it kind of
bums me out I’ve put so much time and effort into this bike and I don’t like
putting something together that isn’t like what I had envisioned but in this
scenario I think once I get it all together it’ll look pretty good so the
coating I had done is called a ti nitride coating and there’s a few
different reasons why people do this coating and number one is it’s much
harder than the stock chrome finish it’ll hold up to dings and scratches
better number two it produces less friction with the seals so you have
smoother suspension action and number three my favorite is it looks much
better you get a lot of cool colors out of this type of coating and just to give
you guys a general idea on pricing most shops charge around six or seven hundred
bucks for the fork tubes and 200 to 250 for the shock shaft so I’m gonna start
with the forks first I’m gonna go grab all those parts lay it out on the table
and get assembling this is gonna be fun man it was forever ago when I took these
things apart so I’m kind of forgetting where to start I guess that would be
putting the lugs right on to those fork legs now one thing to consider before
you put the forks all the way together is you want to measure the diameter and
the length of the lower tubes the dampening rods and the upper tubes that
way in the event that something gets broken or dented you know exactly what
size part you need to replace it now the lower tubes and upper tubes are the same
from left to right so it doesn’t matter which side the lugs go on now the first
step is to mate the four clogs up to the tubes so we’ll need to pop in the
bottoming cones with all new seals of course and as the stuff goes together
I’ll be using some fork oil to make it slide together as for the o-rings you
can match these up at a local hardware store or I believe they’re still
available from show or or qib now a couple things before you thread the Lugg
onto the fork make sure there’s no oil here on the threads you’ll want to use
red loctite to lock that lug into place and make sure your bargaining cone is in
and seated all the way have a ring on there with grease or oil on it and at
that point we are ready to go and then to start threading that thing
on now as far as tightening the lug on to the tube the torque spec is around
one hundred foot-pounds but obviously it’s kind of tough to correctly measure
that so what I’ve got set up here is I’ve got the tube and a tube clamp in
the vise I’m gonna slide the axle through the lug like we did in the video
when I remove the lugs and I’m gonna use that as like a lever to tighten the lug
so basically I’m just gonna tighten it until it wants to kind of spin here in
the clamp man that was pretty sketchy having the tube and the clamp but
thankfully didn’t scratch anything up it’s a pretty nice clamp I’ll actually
drop a link down below to you where I bought this and one thing that helps too
is squirting some Windex on the inside of the clamp helps keep things in place
a little better and thank God for my buddy Jared Keller who works over at JG
rmx the race team he’s been helping me out with all the specs all the details
on removing the lugs reinstalling them spent a huge help and I’m also able to
relay that info to you guys so if you want to pay a thank-you to him or gave
him a follow I will put his Instagram right here on the bottom of the screen
now I just need to locate the locking screw for the lug I’m gonna put some
Loctite on the lock screw as well get this thing all tightened down keep in
mind that threads are pretty small on this so you can’t absolutely crank on it
now if you want a little extra security with that lock screw you can peen the
edge of it with something like this so now I’ll be working on getting the seals
and bushings into place I’ll be using SKF seals these are widely known to be
some of the best seals out there snag these over at Rocky Mountain
you’ll need a seal guide to get the seals on you don’t want to cut them up
on the sharp edges on the tube and it’s always nice to have a diagram here that
way you know how everything goes you can print these out over at the Rocky
Mountain OAM parts diagram now let’s start gonna slip on the bullet put some
oil on the first thing that goes on is the dust seal
you want the spring side facing down and we’ve got a clip and the actual oil seal
you want oil on the inside of this as well
and for this one you want the taller lip to be facing the bottom of the fork so
goes on just like this now the bullet can come off got a washer and then the
thinner bushing and finally the fatter bushing this bushing fits right into the
top groove on the tube all right let’s get real guys time to slide the two
tubes together just want to make sure all of the bushings and seals have a
nice coat of oil on them and you just slide them together just gonna start
pressing and the oil seal by hand and the rest of the way we’ll need to use a
fork steel driver and believe it or not I’ve actually never used a fork seal
driver before I always use a piece of PVC pipe but I figured I might as well
get the right tool for the job and this is what we have here a tusk fork seal
driver so let’s give it a shot just think the two halves just slide them
together around tube and you should be able to push that seal right into its
home now to get the seal in the rest of the way you may need a slide hammer the
driver a little bit on the tube now if you’re gonna slide the driver on the
tube it’s a good idea have some oil in between there now that we’re able to see
the groove for the clip just simply pop that thing into place you’ll definitely
want to hear a click when that clip goes into the groove like that and last up is
the dust seal these can just be pressed in by hand got the fork set up in the
vise so that way I can pop in the spring and the damper assembly before I slide
this in I always like to make sure that the lock nut is threaded all the way up
and and we go now to get the rebound adjuster threaded
onto the fork this is what holds everything kind of in place I need to
compress the spring and then use a damper holding tool to hold the rod out
and that way I can thread this on the next step is the slide the rod for the
rebound adjuster into place and we’ve got the actual adjuster itself then the
torque spec for the adjuster to the rod is 16 foot-pounds now I’m going to
carefully compress the fork once again and slide this tool out of place and you
just want to ease it into those threads they’re nice and slow once I got the
adjuster tightened down I’m gonna torque it to 51 foot-pounds now we’re gonna go
ahead and add some oil these things are actually coming along pretty good and
that color combo is starting to grow on me
kind of diggin it now the only thing I would change is to have a black fork cap
but other than that all looks great now for fork oil I’ll be using thirteen
point seven ounces of oil for each fork and I’ll be using Maxima five weight and at this point just a matter of
thread the cap on all right Matt work here on the forks is done just gonna
tighten up the caps once I had the forks and the clamps but overall pretty pumped
on how these came out can’t wait to get him on the bike now one thing I learned
in talking with sgb is that the color can vary quite a bit from fork to fork
it’s kind of difficult to nail down a certain color like I sent him a picture
of what I wanted and I ended up getting something a little bit different but
that’s not just say the coating itself is bad it’s not gonna scratch or flake
off any easier so just keep that in mind when you have a set of tubes coated the
color might be slightly different but the quality of the coating won’t be
compromised but now that the forks are all together I think I can work with
that looks pretty good now I’ve had some questions on these fork leaders people
are asking if they leak these are from works connection I’ve always had good
luck with these in the past never had any issues with them leaking or sucking
air in now I would say if you go with a quality set then you should be fine and
not have to worry about that don’t go anywhere guys we still have the
shock to put back together but man this thing is gonna be trick I love that
color combo step one is to get the clevis back on the shaft got the shock
shaft in the shock clamp and the vise and the first thing to do is get the
rebound adjuster rod through the shaft grease that thing up nice and good and
now the retaining nut can be threaded on before I put walk tight on those threads
gonna make sure there’s no grease on there and the lock tight I’ll be using
is the same as the forks red 271 and now we’re ready for the clevis and just like
the fork lugs I’m gonna crank on this thing pretty good
I think the torque spec is around fifty or sixty foot pounds but once again
can’t really measure that very accurately so next up we have the rebound adjuster
and you want to make sure all the previous markings from the locking screw
or filed down or else the adjuster won’t fit into the clevis very well and of
course while you have the adjuster off the clevis always a good idea to clean
it up and we greased it I’m gonna put the screw in on the bottom this screw is
what kind of guides the adjuster into place use a little bit of blue loctite
on it that’s a little bit more than a little
now we’re gonna want to pack some grease inside this clevis that way the adjuster
works smoothly got a little carried away with the grease there but definitely
can’t hurt the slot is gonna go facing down toward the screw that we just
installed and so just push that sucker right in this thing just took a piss all
over my table you’re gonna want to turn the adjuster all the way clockwise total
stops and of course want the fish all that grease out of the lock screw
threads I’ll be using red loctite on that man that adjuster is buttery now not
gonna lie I’m pretty pumped on the shock these colors are really gonna stand out
next up we got to get all of this on to the shaft in the correct order first up
is the cup for the bottoming cone followed by the bottoming cone itself
this one’s pretty cool all black usually they come in this really ugly yellow
color this one’s tough going on there and then we’ve got the cap for the
bottom of the shock body next in line we have the seal head but we’ll need to put
a seal bullet on top of the shaft to protect the seals to have some oil on
this thing and on we go and last up is the shim stack and piston assembly you
know cut the zip tie that holds this together got to be really careful got to
keep all of this together and on to the shaft we go just like that
and we’ll wipe the threads because we’ll be putting some Loctite for the nut
they’re gonna bust out the red loctite once again we’re gonna torque this one
to 27 foot pounds and I’m actually gonna swap out this piston band for an OEM
Honda one this one on here has been giving me some issues so I get them off
you simply just cut them right off and there’s a couple of rings underneath
that we’re gonna replace we’ll see if there’s any way I can get this band on
by hand yeah I’m gonna have to use some sort of assistance here I think I’d use
or bullet in the past let’s see if this works man that actually worked pretty
good using the bullet now the last thing I’ll
be doing is painting the edge of the nut to keep that sucker in place now the
next step in the process is to install the shock shaft the compression adjuster
and the bladder and cap into the shock body along with some oil without
introducing any air into the system that’s very important and make sure
before you start you have the spring nuts on the shock body those can’t go on
later on I learned my lesson the hard way one time and I take the shot
completely apart just to get those nuts on so learn from my mistake you’re gonna
want to have the compression adjuster and rebound adjuster turned all the way
soft all the way to the left that’s good there and then you want to make sure
that the rebound shaft is pushed all the way down inside just a light push with a
screwdriver should ensure that now before we get started bleeding the shock
I must say there are a couple different ways that go about this some people use
a vacuum pump some people do it manually so I’ll be doing it manually and the
method I’m using is a little bit different than what most people do I
originally got the idea from race tech I saw them do it and to me it makes the
most sense and seems to be the easiest so we’re gonna start with the shock and
the vise you’re definitely going to want to set a soft jaws for this so we’ve got
the compression adjuster here obviously like I said earlier turned all the way
to soft a little oil on these o-rings and then thread it into the shock body
and go ahead and tighten that sucker down now with the shock body upright in
the vise I’m gonna fill the reservoir side with oil using Maximus seven weight
here we’re going to fill it up about 3/4 of the way and you want to make sure
that fluid is transferring over to the shock body side when you have your
compression adjuster softened all the way that will allow the fluid to work
its way over to the other side and you can actually cup your hand over the
reservoir side to try to force that fluid through and also work out any
bubbles in there while the fluid actually went down quite a bit and doing
that I have to add some more I’m gonna do that again it seemed to work pretty
well and if you lightly tap around the compression adjuster down here at the
bottom that will help work out any air bubbles
now if the reservoir filled up about two-thirds or three-quarters of the way
we’re gonna push in the bladder and cap definitely make sure that fluid is
coming out of there that ensures that there is no air trapped inside and just
go ahead and push that bladder and cap all the way inside of the shock
definitely a messy process here so just push it down far enough to expose that
gap for the circlip pretty simple deal to work this thing in you want to make
100% sure that that thing’s in the groove to seat that cap against the
circlip we’ll need to add about 50 psi to the bladder
now we’re gonna fill up the other half of the body about an inch and a half
from the top go ahead and grab your shaft we’re gonna start working this
thing in and this thing is really coming together now if the shaft pretty much
compressed all the way in the body I’m gonna make sure the fluid level is still
above the piston and the key here to bleeding is to compress the piston fast
fast enough to open up the valving or open up the shims to allow fluid and
therefore air to travel out and then when you’re rebounding or pulling the
shock back out you want to go really slow so in fast and out slow I had one
thing to keep in mind is you don’t want to pull the piston up high enough to
where the fluid level goes below it you do that you’re just bringing air back in
so we’re gonna go down fast kind of tough with a new piston band it’s a
little stiff and then rebound out slow so as you’re bleeding the air of the
system when you’re compressing the shock shaft
you’ll hear the bubbles come out it’ll sound kind of like Rice Krispies and
milk that’s kind of the best way to explain it and then when you don’t have
any air in there it’ll sound smooth kind of like two
pieces of paper rubbing against each other and while you having the shaft all
the way extend it it can help to kind of tap on the body a little bit with a soft
hammer that can help work out some of those bubbles alright I’m gonna do this one more time
I usually like to do it five times to make sure that there’s no air trapped in
there and then after I believe the shock five times
I’ll push the shaft down really fast as if I was bleeding it again and then I’ll
let it sit for about 15 minutes and that should work any possible air bubbles out
now after it’s been sitting for 15 minutes I’m gonna pull the shaft back up
to the top of the stroke and at this point I’m gonna make sure the shock body
is completely topped off with fluid and this is where it kind of gets messy wrap
a rag around the shock and start to bring down the seal head just work it
really slow and you’ll notice there’s a little hole right here that allows air
to escape so just continue pushing down that steel head let some air escape out
of there so I just maintain constant pressure on
that seal head till there’s no more air bubbles coming out there it looks like
we’re good so if continuous pressure on that steel head let some air out of the
bladder and you’ll see the seal head will start to go into the body there we
go all right here we are time to get that circlip in place now once you’ve made sure that circlip
is all the way in the groove time to pop on the end cap so you want the holes on
the end cap to be facing front to back of the bike and the reasoning for that
is if you get water inside the cap you want these holes to be facing front to
back so that way that water and dirt drains out now we’re gonna finish it up
by tapping this cap into place with a rubber mallet I just can’t wait to get
the spring on now this is gonna be sick make sure this thing is going on the
right way should match up with that top collar pretty good
let’s see it doesn’t quite seat up there so we’ll need to flip it around oh boy
it is getting real we’ve got this little collar that goes on the bottom cone like
so and last step we’ve got the retaining clip snaps right into that groove make
sure it’s on all the way and then lock that collar against it we’re dialed now
just a matter of tightening down this spring and of course we’re gonna need to
fill up the bladder with nitrogen you definitely do not want to use air
nitrogen is a much more stable gas so the spec for this shock is 145 psi so
I’m gonna drag this thing over to my buddy’s house he’s got a nitrogen tank
and go ahead and fill it up but you can drop it by a motorcycle shop they’ll be
able to do it for you I remember right it’s about 15 or 20 dollars oh and
obviously I’m missing the top shock bearing so once that comes in I’m gonna
press it in and this shock will be a hundred percent ready to go on the bike
all right guys the suspension is all done pretty much ready to bolt on to the
bike really pumped on how this stuff came out at first I wasn’t quite sure
about the color of the tubes or the shock shaft but over the course of the
video the color really grew on me and now that I have everything together I
think it turned out really good I can’t wait to see how it looks on the
so I will drop a link down below to the company that did the coatings sgb I mean
I was kind of bummed out that the color was a little bit off but overall I mean
dude this looks sweet so I got nothing to complain about now some of you guys
might be wondering why I decided not to do any spring or valving changes while I
had the suspension apart now the plan is to put the suspension on the bike ride
it with the stock Springs and stock valving just to see how terrible it is
it’s not gonna be set up for me at all and then I’m gonna compare it
side-by-side stock versus having someone go through respring it revolve it for me
and show you guys how big of a difference that stuff makes so that
video will be coming once I get the bike up and going and on the track should be
a good one and just a friendly reminder for you guys I still have the steel
horse giveaway going on that ends this Sunday September 15th
so the giveaway is for a similar and bolt system that allows you to grease
the super arm pivot bearings without having to take anything apart on the
bike pretty cool setup I’ll actually show you what it’s all about on the bike
so the setup replaces your smart pivot bolt and the bushings I go inside the
swing arm and then it’s got a grease fitting on both ends of it
steak grease gun give it a couple pumps and that’s all it takes to grease those
bearings inside of there pretty cool deal if you want to enter the giveaway I
will drop the link to that down below in the description well guys thank you so
much for joining me on the suspension build I had a ton of fun and I’m really
pumped on how everything turned out and you guys will have to stay posted for
the next video coming out will be bolting the suspension back on the bike
and possibly finishing up the bike we’ll see about that I’m not quite sure yet
but either way that’ll make for one heck of a video I can’t wait so until next
time keep it Prime

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