Simple Electronics Kit Build

you’re right that doesn’t look like my
usual style a beer there’s a reason for that I got this package from simple
electronics who’s another guy that’s got an electronics YouTube channel he’s over
in Ontario as you can see from the address here he sent me a package so I
figured I’d have a beer from his neighborhood this is lug tread from beaus
brewing in or are they Vanleek Hill Ontario which is the closest beer I
could find to Ottawa so that’s what this is about
not bad um a little more mild than I’m used to but it’s not a bad beer I can
definitely drink that in the summer so this box this box has a kit that he put
together in it on his channel he did did an exercise designing a circuit slightly
modified from a very standard circuit and then went through the whole process
of using CAD tools to do the schematic up and then designing a
board having the board printed by one of those quick PCB print companies that
you’ve heard advertising all over everybody’s channels but not here
because I’m not doing sponsorships um but here is the kit that he put together
he he made up I think half a dozen of them sent me one sent one so a couple
with other people one of them he sent to another youtuber another small channel
called junk from work not sure where he is I think he’s on the west coast
um anyways he’s he does like automotive electronics usually and tools and stuff
like that so I’ll put links down in the down below to simple electronics and
his design and build of this thing he’s got a playlist so I’ll link to that
actually I’ll probably link to that up there and junk from work
linked him down in the description to his to his live stream we threw this
thing together and just generally dicked around as you do on a live stream so
what do we have we have a note and we have the kit probably better package
coming from Ontario then most of the stuff that I get from China then again
he spent a ridiculous amount on postage for this because that’s just what Canada
Post does so we have all of the components in here is the board which
looks like a fairly nice little board actually and we have a note hang on the
note has a schematic which is nice and they do his general explanation circus
design for 12 volts MOSFETs rated for 6 amps but and then all personalized note
hang out ok cool little note nothing too too personal on there so there we go
what’s let’s just get into this kit though and here’s just a freeze-frame of
the schematic from his video which is a little bit easier to see than on that
paper just with my lights and stuff but it’s a fairly standard 555 circuit these
two diodes at their 0.6 voltage drop and wherever this thing is set between the
two between the charge and discharge is going to adjust the threshold and thus
cause the PWM thing to happen I’m just doing this from memory so I may be a
little bit off but he goes through it and explains it in big detail in the in
his playlist so if you want to know more check that out or you know do what what
any of us would have done and go and check the Wikipedia article anyway so on
the output pin 3 he’s driving the gate of MOSFET so we can drive something
fairly big and I think he said can go up to like 6
with a caveat so you can drive lights or whatever you want on that motor speed
control sure he’s got a set up as a 12 volt circuit towable it’s connected over
here and then 0.01 and 470 micro farad for decoupling slash power supply
smoothing nice simple little circuit and it shouldn’t take that long to to build
it actually as long as they don’t screw things up now you know somebody’s gonna
say how come you don’t have one of those one of those brass shavings things I do
I like this I’m all I mean through this but I mean Pope goes into that every
once in a while just to get an extra clean yeah turn that on get that warmed
up well that’s happening let’s pull this guy over don’t be everything randomly on
the board so he mentioned in the note that there was a bit of an error on the
board surrounding the potentiometer footprint which is down here what
happened as he explains in his video is he lead this out as point one headers a
header err point one pitch the same as bread boards and things however when the
pots showed up they are breadboard friendly but their point to pitch they
hit every second one so he’s done this he’s tacked on some header pins to make
it fit okay good budge not a bad workaround role
other than that what are we having the kit here let me have the hardware for
the pot probably don’t need that screw terminals
there’s the filtering capacitor there’s the timing capacitors that’s
probably 104 yeah that’s going to be the other what are these two guys that one’s 103 okay so the two 104
are these ones here that’s the one three that’s the big electrolytic we have the
MOSFET we have two diodes these two diodes here and what else we gonna find
a 1k in a 10k resistor that one is 10k the one that doesn’t have the paper tabs
on it and that one is the one key the one that’s got the paper tabs on it okay
remember that for long enough to not screw it up so that’s all the components
in this it’s a really simple circuit and I mean good on him five five five
circuit is a good choice for for a first board to put together that came up
pretty well haha he’s got his advertisement in there
cool that’s interesting
loading ground oh that’s interesting the spokes are on the plus 12 volt side so
this isn’t the ground plane this is a voltage plane and on the back there’s
the ground pin there that one okay so this is a ground plane on the back and a
VCC plane on the front cute that doesn’t they don’t see that that often me happen
more than a more often than I think but I don’t know yes there’s the two diodes
there’s the part five four five the 1k the 10k nice gate drain and source I
labeled there and then those two capacitors cool what does he see in the
back here thank you for your support just because it is an old-school circuit
I’m going to use the helping hands so where shall we start
typically I like to go chip last because it’s the most fragile thing even though
if I five isn’t that fragile let’s put the electrolytic in just because it’s
biggest so negative goes up to that side see the big blob of white on the symbol
there plus I can see the the spokes going off to the positive ground the
positive plane here just give that a little kinky kinky on the back should I
do this a whole bunch of things at once sure I’ll put these I’ll do all the
capacitors just give them a little bend not a huge Bend I know that offends some
people you just have to bend it enough that it’ll hold and not so much that
your solder blob is going to spew over onto something else okay starting with
the electrolytic that start is up nicely how about the one the site on the ground
plane yeah that takes a little bit more time and these two little caps oh yeah I could have missed that when I thought
about what did I do wrong this wasn’t paying attention and then this one again
much goes to the ground plane okay that worked pretty well needing new cutters
for the first project I gotta be careful to remember not to use these on header
pins because that’s gonna Nick them up again like the old ones were okay
that’s the capacitor so there’s this other little one here this one this
capacitor is the other one in the power supply filtering circuitry here and now
that guy’s job is just to clean out any higher frequency crud on the power line
the Ordre lytic will take care of any lower frequency AC that happens to be
stuck on there causing problems or in this case not causing problems because
the capacitors take care of it okay resistors that one was the 1k remember
that cuz it hit the paper on it yeah those nice rough Bend chunk into there and I’m just got been
the leads in the back you seem that happen before and the 10k
goes in the other side of the 555 there’s there’s a lot of different sort
of theories as to what’s the best order of operations for a circuit board what a
guy say do the do the small stuff first the low-profile stuff first and then do
that the tall and big and in the way stuff why didn’t that work because I didn’t get down in there with
my iron and there is value to doing things in
that order sometimes it makes sense especially if one thing gets in the way
of something else and I often do that if there is something like that happening
note that I’m keeping the the pot and the MOSFET from here now then I have
committed a sin according to some people have cut through the solder which
apparently is a bad idea because your shock component and damage it as a
bloody resistor relax so what’s next let’s put the two diodes in aren’t they
both of the same they ought to be mm-hmm yep those are both four thousand ones
okay drop the them in he’s got the band in mark so that’s real easy Gideon get
in so yeah the order of operations so again
I if there isn’t any real mechanical reason to go with one or the other order
of operations I tend to just go with the least fragile least possibly damaged by
heat things first and the most likely to be damaged by heat or static or screwing
around things last which usually means leaving the chip to last until unless it
goes in a socket and again a 555 especially the non CMOS non ya the non
CMOS ones are fairly robust even the CMOS ones these days are but again being
old-school back in the day CMOS was considered expensive and fragile okay
so far so good what else we got here um let’s put those in okay there’s
something I would change if I was doing this board later not really a criticism
just an observation I would make sure that the power and ground designations
aren’t obscured by the connector because when you’re connecting it up later
especially if it’s a long time later that’s going to get in the way and
you’re not gonna reveal the tail also so to load you can see it there from load
that’s a little tricky to see you can sort of see it because those things won’t hold when I
turn this upside down blue tack or the dollar store equivalent thereof now
these are going to take a little bit of eat just because there’s such big pins
and such big pads it’s still not too much and we’re still relatively small
stuff here this one’s gonna take the hurt you’re gonna take those heat
because it’s on the ground plane that still wasn’t too bad okay the last two
things the MOSFET so that goes on there I’m gonna give these just oh yeah it’s a
bit of a bend just to keep the homeplace in there a little little heavy-duty
though okay why does that keep going out of focus and again these are a little
bit bigger so they’re gonna take a little bit more heat just a second more
time not too much you know this one’s on the ground plane clean up the iron yeah that’s gonna take some heat but not
ridiculous melts I think I’m gonna use my old and busted cutters for this one they still work there’s being a precious
with the new ones here okay what’s left on there just the chip oh
and the pot right so let’s just take a pause for a second so the pot I could
use his bodge which would work but I think they’re gonna try something else I have in my accumulation of stuff some
pots including these little tin turn ones which are decay and a multi turn
pot and more importantly point one pitch so they should drop right in it’s always
important to have stuff on hand you never know when you’re gonna need it I’d
rather have it and not need it than need it and not have it so and we’ll drop
that in that way so I can adjust it from off the side of the board and towards my
blue tack again okay so it’s not much of a modification but it’s something I
don’t really want to dig into the circuit board and modify it and hack it
apart if I don’t have to and I know the circuit board works because I’ve seen
two different guys assemble it yep just the chip left now they’re real as usual
there’s a notch marking and the square pad both indicating pin 1 the chip
itself has the same notch indicating pin 1 just drop that guy in there did you
mean a little bit here we go and a quick starter job oh
yeah and just to be nice to the chip I’m gonna spread the heat around from one
corner to the other take my time give the iron a bit of a queen that one doesn’t feel like it’s all the
way through Oh Tommy okay okay
they’re got the chip pried up now I can get in there with my pliers and if the
pins more or less lined up like they’re supposed to be and now I want to suck
those holes dry a little bit more I’ve got them pretty good but I want to get
them right to cleaned out so I can put that back in there so never heating it
up and eventually can’t they’re heard a click oh yeah there we go they’re all for now
huh a little tense but that’s it’s the kind of crap you have to sometimes deal
with when you’re doing repairs pulling out chips without necessarily damaging
them because you’re not quite sure if they’re good or bad or if something’s
broken or whatever it’s a little bit tedious and time-consuming but it’s not
that hard to do with a bit of practice entirely my screw up
sorry man making a kit look like crap it’s my fault so now that I’ve got
everything is soldered and all the pins actually in their holes and hopefully I
didn’t break anything or burn the board out although all the abuse that I put
this thing to that’s a testament to this said fr4 I think it is a circuit board
material the fibre glas.t stuff I didn’t destroy the board so now I’ll bring in
some of the alcohol of the non-drinking variety here and just clean up the flux
on this board because I made such a mess of it train me go look a little bit
presentable this is just a little bristle brush it’s think of it as a
heavy-duty toothbrush right going on here giving all the excess flux off here
into something I know other people have mentioned in previous kit builds of mine
clean up your flux yeah it’s boring to watch on camera that’s why I don’t
normally show it to you any let’s see what this looks like now that’s not too
bad that’s a little bubble folks there so I did actually damage the pad a
little bit but it doesn’t matter because it’s just a mechanical anchor pad on
this side it’s this side where it’s connected to the plane so I think that
should be ready to try and power this thing up and see if it works
okay um I’ve got myself a few things hooked up here I’ve got an LED with a
resistor in series with it just so I don’t blow it up or destroy anything
it shouldn’t be too high a current draw but just make sure anyway 12 volts on
the power supply and I got a current limited at just shy at 200 milliamps so
hopefully if things go horribly wrong you don’t go horribly wrong power their
power there no I don’t know where that pot is set to so let’s see what happens
when you turned it on ooh do you know led its uh some adjusting of
this here potentiometer we should see that thing start ramping up can you see
that I can see it getting brighter and they can also see the current going up
on the power supply we’re at 40 milliamps right now and that’s not too
bad is anything getting hot nope I think you guys can see that getting brighter
can’t you that’s one downside with using the multi turn pod is it you know reef
on it for hours to get to the end that’s getting pretty close to max brightness
60 62 million 63 million yeah so that’s the top that’s pretty good and then of
course we can spin it down using this screwdriver here yeah it’s got the nice
little spinny bearing on the end of it and you can see I think the LED dimming
a little bit you know there it’s just down to like that
let’s pull out the cheesy scope and just take a quick peek at this thing a one
moment please alright here we go as you can see the
duty cycles pretty much nothing here it can’t even keep up with it
we’re doing 24 million and that is super duper dim I’m gonna zoom in just a
little bit so you can read the scope better I’ll just tell you what’s
happening off screen and actually put that in there maybe so you start
bringing the brightness up and you can see the PWM increasing for some reason
this is showing upside down oh that’s just because this cheap little scope so
75% actually it’s 25 percent drained so we’ll keep spinning it up I don’t
know why that’s showing upside down so there is pretty much there’s 50 percent
duty cycle we’re drawing 43 million into the LED and it’s kind of half bright so
now we’ll just keep cranking on this thing and you see the duty cycles coming
up to pretty much hundred percent and again there’s not enough there for it to
glom on to it it just thinks it’s random spikes and that’s drawing 64 million so
it works exactly how we thought it should which is good I never had any
doubts at all you know his engineering or had some doubts in my assembly so
what is the frequency that he’s gonna so yeah here we are back about 50/50 ish
percent duty cycle yeah nine hundred and forty-one
Hertz okay one case not a bad numbers for for doing LED dimming and stuff as
you can see there’s no observable flicker there partly because that’s not
even division of my framerate and partly because it’s just too fast anyways so
I’m pretty pleased with that with this with this little kit what was
put together by my simple electronics he did a good job of it I almost killed it
but managed to rescue it I am pleased thanks uh thanks to simple electronics
for sending me this get to play with that was fun that was even even fixing
my screw-up was was fun experience I haven’t done a lot of board level repair
lately I used to do an awful lot of it back like decades ago but I’m a little
out of practice as you could probably observe so yeah
thanks to him for sending that out thanks to junk from work for beating me
to building this kit but he had a he had a fun little live stream where he put
his together that was that was pretty cool and thanks to all you guys for
watching I appreciate it now go check out those other guys videos the links
will be down in the description and if you’ve got anything to say about this
then I’m sure somebody’s gonna say something about my soldering technique
Oh feel free jump down in the comments oh I won’t chat with you down there
thanks for watching bye


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