Tips For Shooting on a Phone | FilmicPro Messed Up My Footage?


– [Felicia] Filmic Pro? What is this? Hello everybody and welcome
back to the channel, my name is Felicia and today we’re gonna talk about filming on a mobile phone. Yes I know I’ve had a lot of trouble in the past filming on a mobile phone and if some of you have
been here from the beginning you’ll know that to be true. But last week my camera went
out on a job without me. (silence) Yeah. So it did get me thinking
about if I had to shoot on my mobile phone, how good would it be and how much of a cinematic image
could I get out of that? Now don’t get me wrong. Shooting on a mobile phone is totally fine but it just isn’t for me. And for the style that I shoot in. But it’s still okay if that’s
all you have access to, situationally it’s something
that you need to shoot on. Or you just to be as small
and compact as possible to get into the areas
that you need to shoot in. But despite how good phone
cameras are getting these days, there’s still fundamental
flaws in the settings, in the apps, in everything. In the design of those
cameras that can set you back in terms of getting a cinematic image. Well, that is unless you invest a lot of time and money into
making that work for you. What I’m saying is, if you want something that
looks like it was shot on an ARRI camera you’re
going to want to shoot on an ARRI camera. And if you want something
that looks like it’s shot on a RED, you’re going to
want to shoot on a RED. If you shoot on anything different you’re never gonna get the same result. You can get close-ish but
it’s never gonna be the same. You can’t make a camera work
for what it isn’t designed for and expect to get the same result. Maybe one day our phones
will be closer to that but right now they’re just not. So enough of that. I’m gonna bring you through
my three tips for shooting on a mobile phone to get
the best image you can. Tip number one and one of the most
important ones is settings. You have to think about the
settings of your camera. Now most phones can shoot
in 4K now which is great. And that is a good base to start at especially if you’re not using
something like Filmic Pro or Open Camera to get
access to more settings. But if you are using
something like Filmic Pro you do have a little bit
more control over your image. You can change the compression, which is a very important one. You can change the resolution. You can change the shutter angle. The white balance. You can also change the color
profile to a flat profile so you can grade it and post. But there are some
things to consider here. Filmic Pro does have its limitations and yes indeed its bugs. I’ve noticed seemingly locked settings like the shutter speed change
after a couple of takes without me touching or unlocking it. And that can be really
detrimental to a shot as 1/200 of a second
looks completely different to 1/50 of a second. And if you’re looking for a
cinematic shot you’re gonna want to stay around the
1/50 of a second unless the 1/200 of a second is
something that you’re after. You can watch my video about shutter speed and shutter angle if you’d
like to learn more about how that relates to a cinematic image and I’ll link that one above. But here is a really quick example about the certain effect that would give you. You basically get a much
more sharp jittery image. There’s less motion blur. Basically it’s good for
things like fast motion, if you’re doing a car
chase or a fight sequence but not if you want to get
a natural looking shot. So how do you combat this
on a mobile phone with an app that doesn’t have
exposure compensation, is unable to handle highlights very well, and with a lens that doesn’t close down? The simple answer is
investing in some ND filters. And there are a couple of different brands that make ND filters for phones and I’ll link them down below. I don’t actually own any of them so I can’t really show you the effect. But if you don’t know what ND filters are you can think of them as
sunglasses for your camera. Basically they’re different
strengthed bits of glass that you put in front of the lens and that lets less or
more light in depending on the strength obviously
that you put in there. Which means you can open
back up to 1/50 of a second and get back to that
correct shutter angle. I mean you can always just shoot at a higher shutter angle
like 1/200 of a second or whatever you need to
get that correct exposure, but I wouldn’t recommend it especially if there is a lot of motion in the image. Sometimes it can work though. And we’re gonna stop
there for just one moment. Hello, editing Felicia here. Yeah the one that you never
really get to speak to because usually everything goes sweet. But this episode didn’t really go as smooth as I wanted it to. Like I was saying with
those bugs in Filmic Pro, I encountered a lot of problems with this. I used Filmic Pro to
film all of the examples in this video and some
of them came out okay, not the best as the
shutter angle kept changing and the shutter speed kept changing. But there was one
detrimental thing which set me back in all of my
filming which I figured I should tell you because it’s a really, really important one. And I didn’t pick up on
it until I came to edit. So here we go. Let’s find a piece of footage
that I have actually shot in 60 frames per second and
we’ll see if it’s actually coming up as 60 frames per second. This is a good example. So I went into the metadata. Filmic Pro? What is this? This clip was filmed at
25 frames per second. Why is it importing as 8.78 frames per second? I’ve also opened this in
other programs as well and it’s exactly the same thing. I opened up the file
natively on my computer and it’s exactly the same thing. If somebody in the comments
could shed some light on that, that would be awesome. So yeah. As you can see that’s pretty frustrating. We’ll get back to it in just a moment, I just want to let you
know that the examples that I re-filmed were shot natively
on the camera of the phone, not using any external
apps like Filmic Pro or Open Camera simply
because I just can’t trust it now that I’ve seen that issue. Just so you know as well, I am shooting on a Samsung Galaxy S9 Plus. Alright. Let’s get back to it. Two things that really
make a cinematic image are the framing and the composition. They’re very important
aspects to any cinematic image regardless of what you’re shooting on. And considering that
shooting on a mobile phone you don’t really have as much
control over other things to get a cinematic image out of the phone, your framing and your composition
are even more important. Both of them are tools to
set your story in motion and progress it forward. So think about the content of your piece and what the story is behind it, and how you’re gonna
progress through that story. What does the framing and the
composition say about that? Is there any camera movement
that you could introduce that would progress
that story even further or change the meaning of it? Maybe there’s no story at all. Maybe you just want to make
something look appealing. You could also use camera
movement as a transition which can really amp up your piece. Consider things like whip
pans or passing across a dark object and then coming back out of that dark object to change scenes. There’s a lot of different
transitions you can do. Working hand in hand with framing, composition and camera
movement is lighting. Which to be honest with
you I can’t stress enough how important this point is. You know what it’s probably
more important than your story. (silence) Well I mean that and sound. And if you are doing something with sound on your mobile phone I
wouldn’t recommend using the internal microphone. I’d highly recommend investing
in another microphone that you can plug into your phone. There’s a couple of
different brands out there. This one specifically is RODE
and I’ll link that down below. But back to lighting. As I said earlier using a
mobile phone you are restricted in your settings to get a cinematic image, so doing things that
are visually appealing is a better way about it. Typically mobile phones can’t really handle highlights very well. It’s just the camera and its capabilities just aren’t up to scratch. So I wouldn’t recommend
shooting into a bright window or shooting outside in full sun. But if you have to shoot
outside in full sun consider where you are shooting. You might be able to find a
little bit of shade somewhere. In the shade of a building, under a tree. Just something to cut that harsh light. Similarly if you’re shooting inside don’t shoot under a direct light. Try and bounce the light. Try and form the light into
a larger soft source lighting similar to what I’m using here. Now you don’t have to to do this with any professional equipment, although professional equipment does help. You can use whatever
lighting source you have and just turn it around
and bounce it into a wall or a ceiling, or a bit of cloth. Whatever you need to get that reflection bounced back to you. Alternatively you can
also diffuse the light. Or you can do both. You’re just gonna get
a more flattering light and the camera is gonna be able to handle that light a lot better. So thank you very much for
watching this video today. I hope you got something out of it. Yes shooting on a phone is
not ideal in most cases. In some cases depending
on what you’re doing. But I hope these three tips, if you are shooting on your phone, have helped you in some way to
get a better image out of it. And if you really did like
this video please remember to give it a big fat thumbs up, and if you would like
to see more of my face and learn a little bit
more about film making in the process, remember to subscribe and
I’ll see you next Sunday. (gentle pop music)

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