Wabco Air Suspension Compressor Piston Repair Kit for Audi Allroad

So this wabco unit has been removed
from an Audi Allroad but is the same compressor found on many models such as the
Jaguar XJ Series, the Audi A8, Audi Q7, Land Rover Discovery 2, Mercedes S-Class and E-Class, Porsche
Cayenne and VW Tourareg. It’s also found on Range Rover Mk3 and the BMW but its mounted in a
different case in these models so good different video to show you how
to work on that version. It may vary slightly between versions I just mentioned such as the mounting brackets may vary how the compressor is mounted and the temperature sensor, not all models use a temperature sensor but the steps to
changing in the piston ring are exactly the same. So tools required I’ve got a T30 Torx Bit A set of cable snips, five millimeter allen key and just a rag or cloth. What we get in the kit You get a precision machined piston ring
which is manufactured by myself. You get two new O rings. One shaped and one round to
suit different years if the compressor Two new cap-screws with tread-lock pre-applied. A set of cable ties. And an instruction manual which has also got photographs to aid you with the repair. So I have removed the compressor
from the car on the road you can actually fit the
new piston ring with the compressor left on the car but it’s definitely easier with it removed completely so that you can work on it on the bench. Clean any lose dirt. If you have an airline give it a blow down
to prevent any dirt getting into the unit we’re working on
it. The aim is to remove these two Torx bolts and then lift the cylinder and dryer
unit off the motor assembly which gives us access to fit the new
piston ring. So we’re going to cut any cable ties off just to give us access. Next we’re going to move this air tube here. This is the air inlet and this
is when the car lowers it lets air back through this tube. So to remove the tube we’re going to push the collar inwards while pulling the pipe you may have to do both in the same time. Push the collar in and push the pipe out. If it’s fitted note the position at the temperature sensor on one of the Torx bolts. We’re going to remove these two Torx bolts using the T-30 bit. If these bolts are very tight I suggest to wire brush the bottom of the bolt here and spray it with WD-40 and leave it to soak. You can see the end of the thread just here So we’re going to remove these two Torx bolts. Lift off the temperature sensor. Remove the two bolts. And lift off the cylinder unit from the motorhead. Also note the rubber O ring and it’s position. this is the piston ring we’re going to change in a minute. Have a look at the air intake vane on top of the piston. Make sure it
looks closed. If it’s bent open it will reduce
performance so make sure that’s closed and then we’ve got the cylinder. The cylinder walls are actually tapered by design. This is not wear. They are tapered halfway up the bore and then it goes parallel, so that’s not wear. But check for damage in the cylinder. It should be gray and sort of smooth. If
scored or damaged the new piston ring may not perform very well or it won’t last
very long. If the cylinder is scored or damaged its usually due to the air intake not been filtered so it draws in dirt and dust which scores the cylinder. Also see the wear to the top of the
piston ring it’s actually tapered so comparing the
thickness of the new ring to the old ring will not show much difference. It’s this tapered wear here which reduces the
contact in the cylinder This wear is due to the piston ring tilting as it moves up and down there’s no gudgeon pin so it cannot travel
square to the bore it’s also a tapered cylinder which
causes the wear to be at the top of the piston ring. Note the orientation of the old piston ring so you fit the new one the same way, because there’s a wrong way to fit the ring. So note the way it’s fitted around the small timing pin here so it can move but only a little. You may find it easier to position the new ring in the same
orientation before removing the old ring so just to remove it simply stretch the
old ring over the top of the piston. Inspect or
clean the piston groove if needed then
simply stretch the new ring over the top of the
piston making sure when it’s squeezed closed it fits around the small timing pin and not sitting
on top of it. You should be able to move the piston ring side to side just ever so slightly. If you cannot see this pin it’s either upside down or fitted too far round. So this is important that you fit it around this small pin. So next we’re going to remove the old O ring sometimes you get a lot of corrosion
here on this mating face so give it a good clean up, scraping out any loose material if needed. Then wipe clean the cylinder with a dry rag making sure there’s no debris in there then fit the new O ring. Whatever one is required, the shaped one or the round one. Don’t use any lubrication in the system, it’s designed to be dry running and make sure both parts are clean before putting the cylinder back onto the piston. Check your piston is still correctly mounted and then offer the two parts together pushing the piston into the cylinder. So fit the temperature sensor on the same bolt it was removed and use the new bolts with the trhread lock pre-applied. Tighten them up but don’t over-tighten too much. So re-fit the air tube. Simply just presses on. Push it up to the white markers and that’s you finished. That’s the compressor kit fitted a good to refurbish compressor should produce the maximum 16 bar which is just 220 psi When fitted back
onto the car you can use the cable ties to tidy any hoses and cables in place. Just fit it back onto the car in the reverse steps you removed it. If you need further guides, help or photos
to assist you to remove the compressor and fit this kit go to installation page at my website
which is www.bagpipingandy.com the
web address is also shown on screen If you have any questions please contact me, my details are on my web page.


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