WHY DID THEY MAKE THIS??? – Dualshock 4 USB Wireless Adapter Review (PS4)

When Sony announced their PlayStation
4 Wireless Adaptor for Windows, I was pretty excited. I wrote about it in my Tech Tuesday column
over on TetraNinja.com and I was pretty stoked. I thought it would be something that would
finally let me use my DualShock® 4 controller to play games. And in a sense, it is. And if that’s what I wanted–if that’s what
I want to do, I can do it now that I bought this. But turns out, there’s actually no reason
to buy this, unless you’re specifically trying to play PlayStation Now streaming over the
internet or PlayStation 4 Remote Play to play your PlayStation 4 games on your computer. Neither of which are going to be great experiences
in the first place. But if you already have a PlayStation 4 controller
or a PlayStation 4 controller and you’re just playing computer games, don’t buy this. My name is Adam or EposVox, and this is my
very unhappy review of the PlayStation 4 Wireless Adaptor. This is it. This is all you get in a little piece of cardboard
that is about the size of a standard USB drive. All you do is plug it into your computer,
Mac or Windows. It sort of works with Linux, but it detects
like 5 million controls going in all at once. I haven’t yet figured it out. I’m sure someone will create a driver, program,
or map or program that will make it work better. But as soon as I went into my game with this,
it started walking my character all over the place and doing all kinds of crazy stuff. Doesn’t entirely work on Linux yet. But plug it into your computer, hold down–
The USB end of it presses in, so hold down for three seconds until the blue light starts
flashing. That puts it into pairing mode. Turn off your PS4 controller by holding down
the PlayStation home button until the light goes off. And then once it’s off, hold the PlayStation
and the Share button for a number of seconds until the white light starts flickering really,
really fast. That will put the controller into pairing
mode. Then the two should talk to each other and
you’re good to go. You don’t need to install any drivers or software
or any madness like that on your actual computer, which is both a good and a bad thing. Now, it’s a good thing because you don’t have
to mess with anything. It just plug-and-play works, which is really
neat. It’s a bad thing because you then have zero
customization over your controller, zero customization over what you do. You do have the option of playing your computer’s
audio out through the headphone adapter on the controller. And you can actually use that as your microphone
as well if you have a headset hooked up to it. The audio coming out of it honestly isn’t
bad at all either. But I did have issues with certain games not
wanting to play audio out of it for some reason, Black Ops III being one of them. I don’t have a clue why. It just didn’t seem to like it. Another problem of not having any dedicated
software is when you’re not using the PlayStation Now or PlayStation 4 Remote Play software,
you have no indication as to where your battery is at. There’s no onscreen overlay that pops up saying,
“Hey, your battery is dying.” There’s no–there’s nothing to check it whatsoever. And so your controller can just kind of randomly
die. But if you are using PS4 Remote Play, it will
tell you that DualShock® 1, battery 0, and it acts like you have it plugged into the
PlayStation where it has the little bar meter that will pop up and everything. Pretty handy. So I hooked it up, got everything set up,
and was excited to play some games. I opened up Rocket League, and it didn’t have
any idea that I had a controller plugged in. I opened up Black Ops III. Nope, it even actually starts out the game
where it tells me to hit square to go to the store. And if I go to controller customization settings,
it even has PS4 controller mappings by default. But it won’t read the controller or let me
do anything with the controller. I have to use my mouse, and then it will just
never let me play. Battlefield 4 didn’t really read it either. It sort of did, but the controls were really
mapped kind of funky, and apparently I’m not the only one who experienced this situation
with just controllers in general. But it saw the X, square, triangle, circle
buttons as being the D-pad or an analog stick. And none of it mapped made any sense whatsoever. It was pretty bad. Geometry Wars: Retro Evolved did recognize
the controller right off the bat and had no problem playing the game. And I believe DiRT: Showdown did the same. Although, all the button promts are still
the XBox button prompts. It at least worked. So how do you get the controller to work? Well, you have to download a third-party program
called “InputMapper.” Or for Rocket League, I also used a problem
called “X360 CE,” which basically just told the game that the PlayStation 4 controller
was the 360 gamepad. But that only seemed to work with Rocket League. It didn’t work with Trials Fusion, didn’t
work with Black Ops, didn’t work seemingly with anything else. But InputMapper is the program, previously
called DS4Windows, that pretty much everyone’s already been using, ever since the PlayStation
4 came out, to use their PlayStation 4 controller with Windows. So you don’t need the adapter at all. Hook it up via USB cable or hook it up via
Bluetooth, and it will just work with that. Tell it that it’s a wireless Xbox controller
and it will even tell you your battery status. It even has built-in native Windows notifications
to tell you what your battery level is, all without needing this. So InputMapper is pretty cool. Very simple to install and then all the default
settings should work for you. Or you can customize the controller to your
desire. I did tell it when it’s just standard showing
the light bar, to show it as purple, and then to flash red when the battery is dying and
flash green when it’s charging and the battery is charged. And that was pretty cool. And then you can customize rumble settings. You can tell it to, you know, you can map
your controls individually. And look ii said, it will tell you when your
battery is dying and you can see the battery status, which is pretty cool. You can’t visually see it if you are using
the wireless dongle. You can only visually see it if you have it
directly connected. But that’s okay. It still tells you when it’s dying. And even if I’m using the InputMapper, I can
still use the headset from the controller through the wireless dongle. Pretty neat. So why should you buy the PlayStation 4 Wireless
Adaptor for Windows or Mac? If you want to play PlayStation Now or if
you want to stream your PS4 games from your PS4 to your computer. That is it. That is it. What Sony has created here is a closed-off,
completely proprietary Bluetooth adapter for your computer, which most computers these
days either come with Bluetooth built in, or if you have a wifi card, it will have Bluetooth
built into that. My desktop came with it. My laptop has it. Even my Linux laptop! I was able to pair the DualShock® directly
via Bluetooth to Ubuntu and start playing a game on Steam, and it recognized the controller
immediately. So unless–they have created a completely
closed-off Bluetooth adapter for the sole purpose of connecting a single–this is $26–that
can only connect a single DualShock® controller to play games specifically on PlayStation
Now and PlayStation 4 Remote Play. They are trying to support the PC ecosystem
while still completely closing everything off. I’m not happy with it. I definitely don’t recommend you buy it unless
those are your specific needs. Spend like $5 on a cheap Bluetooth adapter
or just run a USB cable and you are good to go. So yeah, it works great. Like, I got much better range with this than
I did with my actual PS4 controller hooked up to my PS4. I’ve had a ton of issues with the PS4 where
my controller’s range, even like two feet away, the controller will start freaking out
and stuff. I basically have to play with my controller
right next to the PS4 no matter what. And currently with the PS4, you can’t plug
the cable in and it turn off the Bluetooth. Like, it still only communicates via Bluetooth. The new controllers that are coming with the
PS4 Slim and PS4 Pro allow you to communicate over USB. But for whatever reason, the PS4 to the PS4
controller, the normal DualShock® 4 cannot communicate over USB. So I literally have to set with my PS4 controller
like right next to my PS4. Whereas this, I got to walk all the way around
my entire living room still playing the game. No input latency, no connection issues. It just worked. So that part was pretty cool. Playing Rocket League at 4K was pretty freakin’
awesome, since I bought it specifically to test this. But that is literally all you can do with
this. And PlayStation 4’s Remote Play isn’t even
a great experience. So I don’t know. I was extremely disappointed with those $26
I invested in a proprietary Bluetooth dongle. But spend yourself $5 on a cheap one. Hook it up and use your controller with your
PC that way. Don’t bother with this, unless you’re interested
in PlayStation Now. This has been my review of something I should
not have bought. Hope you enjoyed the video. Smash the “like” button if you did! Don’t forget to subscribe for more awesome
tech videos, and I will catch you in the next video, back in my normal setup. Yeah! I also want to take a moment to give a huge
thanks and shout-out to our recent Patreon subscribers. Without you guys, these videos would not be
possible. And I thoroughly appreciate your help. Visit patreon.com/EposVox to learn more.


Add a Comment

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *